Masama climbing route??

[starshadow]

Hi. I keep hearing rumors of a really cool 5.8 multi-pitch sport route put up in Masema, I think by Brian Burdo (?) Does anyone have beta?

[erik]

BURDO DIDNT PUT IT UP

 

IT IS 5.9 AND IT IS 5 PITCHES LONG

 

IT IS ON THE GOAT WALL.

 

IT IS A MEDIOCRE ROUTE

 

 

[sobo]

And just to be a stickler, it's Mazama, with a "z".

[mattp]

The Methow Inspiration Route is in my view better than "mediocre" but I agree with Erik if what he means is that there are better 5.9 rock climbs of similar length elsewhere in the State. I think the guidebook says something to the effect that it was intended to be a set up so as to be (1) straight-forward, (2) well-protected, and (3) a good introduction to sport climbing on Goat Wall and it falls just short of all three objectives. There are better 5.9 climbs of similar length up at Washington Pass, but they are trad routes, of course, and I think the M.I.R. can be an O.K. outing if what you want is a multi-pitch sport climb.

[Alex]

starshadow said:

Masema

 

Robert Jordan fan?

 

The route is Methow Inspiration Route, and a topo can be found in Brian Burdo's N Cascades rock guide (which is probably why you thought he put it up)

 

Alex

[pms]

it could be mediocre and still be very good. how does it compare to Condorphamine?

[erik]

CONDOR ROUTE HAS TOO MANY BOLTS(DISCUSSED AD NAUSEM) BUT THE ROCK IS BETTER.

 

I THINK CONDOR ROUTE IS MUCH BETTER.

 

 

[mattp]

Comparing it to Condor, I'd say this:

 

(1) the approach to Methow Inspiration is shorter and probably a little easier, though you have to climb up some loose talus to get to it.

(2) The Methow route is a little less continuous, with some zig-zags and stuff but it doesn't have a half-pitch of scrambling in the middle of it.

(3) As Erik noted, the rock is not as good as that on Condor

(4) The Methow route is not quite as heavily bolted and indeed there are a couple places where you could even fall and hit something.

(5) It seems to me the hardware wasn't quite as good on the Methow route.

 

Although I pretty much agree with the guidebook comments that I tried to reproduce above, I thought the Methow route had an interesting overhang on the second or third pitch and I though the last pitch, or maybe it was the second to last, was actually pretty good.

[Alex]

I think that last pitch on Methow route is much better than any pitch on Cordorphamine, though, regardless of what the approach pitches are like. Both routes sport a number of forgetful pitches.