Dru Posted May 30, 2003 Posted May 30, 2003 they don't make the jaws anymore or like they used to Quote
b-rock Posted May 30, 2003 Posted May 30, 2003 i just got the b52 to replace my atc, i really like it. for belaying it feeds smooth and has a super secure feeling when locked off (it cams the rope against the biner). yes you need two lockers to belay a second in autolock, but it seems to work just as well as the reverso for that purpose. haven't used it with two ropes though. Quote
catbirdseat Posted May 30, 2003 Author Posted May 30, 2003 That's news to me about the jaws. Seems like they just came out with it. It must not have sold well. Quote
Beck Posted May 31, 2003 Posted May 31, 2003 The '03 July 14th edition of Rock & Ice has a good comparison review of "autolock" belay devices plus a good chart on many of tube and stitch plate others... Quote
IceIceBaby Posted May 31, 2003 Posted May 31, 2003 I really like the SBG-II for Ice, the ATC-XP for Trad and the GriGri for Aid/Solo/sport I’m just not in for winded explanation for the reasons I do…Try and you’ll see Quote
inthebiz Posted June 3, 2003 Posted June 3, 2003 (edited) With most modern belay devices (grigri and belay plates not included) about 2-3 feet of rope will slip thru the device in a factor 2 fall, using about 40lbs of resistance in the break-hand. This slipage does more to minimize heat damage to the rope than it does for the dynamics. Devices with less slipage did considerably more damage to the rope. Edited June 3, 2003 by inthebiz Quote
Bronco Posted June 3, 2003 Posted June 3, 2003 shouldn't this be called Relative dynamicity of various belay devices? Quote
catbirdseat Posted June 3, 2003 Author Posted June 3, 2003 Yes, the "n" got left out. Sorry, when one makes up a word, one should at least spell it correctly. Quote
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