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Posted

I'll be part of a 9-man megacluster on the Kautz Glacier route from Friday-Sunday. We'll be camped at around 9,000 feet tomorrow afternoon, and somewhere between 10,500 and 11,000 feet the following day. fruit.giffruit.giffruit.giffruit.giffruit.giffruit.giffruit.giffruit.giffruit.giffruit.giffruit.giffruit.giffruit.gif

Posted
catbirdseat said:

What do you expect the weather will do? We've got typical marine layer stuff expected. Will Rainier poke up through all that crap?

Thats what we're looking for... We'll be climbing Ingraham Direct Monday morning and there is supposed to be a ridge of high pressure building by then. The ceiling has been pretty low 5-8k feet when the marine layer moves in, so hopefully we'll get to look out over a sea of clouds! The only thing that worries me are the high freezing levels. 13K THIS WEEK!!!

Posted

This weekend I think the freezing leves are supposed to drop to 9-10K... lowest they've been in 6 days... its still getting into the 30's at Muir tho. I think Mike Gauthier said a couple weeks ago that he thought the Nisqually Ice Cliff was out (although, I haven't seen it in a couple weeks), he's probably had a closer look than me. It would be an awsome route to do this winter tho, thats fo sho.

 

How is the Kautz Headwall in July in terms of objective hazards? Will that route go in late July?

Posted
Dulton said:

catbirdseat said:

What do you expect the weather will do? We've got typical marine layer stuff expected. Will Rainier poke up through all that crap?

Thats what we're looking for... We'll be climbing Ingraham Direct Monday morning and there is supposed to be a ridge of high pressure building by then. The ceiling has been pretty low 5-8k feet when the marine layer moves in, so hopefully we'll get to look out over a sea of clouds! The only thing that worries me are the high freezing levels. 13K THIS WEEK!!!

We'll be coming up the other side (Tahoma) and descending your tracks. Keep us out of the gapers.

With this sunshine we've been seeing, I'm hoping for a little consolidation to take place. I plan on getting real early starts so I don't have to be on any snowbridges or avalanche chutes when they are soft. Afternon is for siestas. yellowsleep.gif

Posted

Amen on the early start, we want to be out of the Icefall and off the snowbridges before they all come tumbing down! Its gonna be a sweet weekend!! fruit.giffruit.giffruit.giffruit.giffruit.giffruit.gif

Posted
Dulton said:

This weekend I think the freezing leves are supposed to drop to 9-10K... lowest they've been in 6 days... its still getting into the 30's at Muir tho. I think Mike Gauthier said a couple weeks ago that he thought the Nisqually Ice Cliff was out (although, I haven't seen it in a couple weeks), he's probably had a closer look than me.

No, he said it was the ICE FALL. Different route.

 

Posted

I think that would be a really fun route to do, at least from the beta I've seen. If your looking on doing it in June or July sometime and are looking for partners I might be interested.

Posted

Two newbies and I were up at Muir in the rain Friday night. It started raining at about 8000 and didn't stop until about 10PM. I got up at 4:30 to check conditions and it was windy and cold. I dug a pit and found the top 8 inches frozen, the next 18 inches unconsolidated wet granules, and a hard ice surface below that where the water was collecting. We packed up and came down. That was my first stay in the hut. Where were all the dope smokers I've been hearing about?

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