dmcnair Posted May 27, 2003 Share Posted May 27, 2003 (edited) We're planning a climb on SW Buttress of S. Early Winter Spire for the weekend of May 30. Anyone climb on SEW or Liberty Bell over the Memorial Day Weekend? Any information on conditions would be appreciated. Any snow on rock? Thanks Edited May 28, 2003 by dmcnair Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_Simpkins Posted May 28, 2003 Share Posted May 28, 2003 I climbed it Monday. Was very nice. There was a little snow on the route. Still managed fine with rock shoes. Didn't need an ice axe on the spire. Needed ice axe in morning on the approach because snow was hard. Good glissading back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmcnair Posted May 28, 2003 Author Share Posted May 28, 2003 Bill, Thanks for your reply. Which route did you climb? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erez Posted May 29, 2003 Share Posted May 29, 2003 Any word on Becky Route Conditions?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plexus Posted May 29, 2003 Share Posted May 29, 2003 As of last Monday, there's no snow. And considering the lack of snow on Burgundy Spire, it's safe to assume on the Beckey route, there still is no snow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yellowdog Posted May 29, 2003 Share Posted May 29, 2003 Is the SW couloir on South Early Winter Spire still "in" ie does it still have a good amount of snow in it? Planning on going there next week Friday. Any beta is appreciated. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_Simpkins Posted May 29, 2003 Share Posted May 29, 2003 I did South Arete. The couloir looked like an easy snow ascent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dalius Posted May 30, 2003 Share Posted May 30, 2003 Anybody been on South Early Winter Spire, Direct East Butttress yet this year? I'm wondering if it is dry and snow free yet. Also wondering about the NW Corner North Early Winter Spire, but somehow I doubt that is in yet. Anyone know? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertm Posted May 30, 2003 Share Posted May 30, 2003 it was a couple of weeks ago but NW corners still had snow in the corners with a ton of wetness generally Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dalius Posted June 2, 2003 Share Posted June 2, 2003 I climbed the Direct E. Buttress of S. Early Winter Spire yesterday. The route is in excellent shape. No snow on the route and you can approach from the hairpin on snow all the way to the start of the route. (head straight up to right side of buttress, don't go left). What a stellar route. The only downside to the route is aiding the 5.11 sections (I can't lead that high and I find bolt ladders boring), but other than that this route rocks. Excellent free climbing on excellent rock. ***** East face of Liberty Bell is probably totally dry as well. As far as snow in the area goes, it's warm and cornices were crashing and causing little avalanches everywhere. The snow really is mush around there. And as far as camping goes, the first campground you hit driving towards mazama is mostly empty and totally free. Gotta love that. Anyone know how long that lasts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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