Alex Posted May 27, 2003 Share Posted May 27, 2003 After two days of trashing our hands on various Leavenworth 5.3's, and trashing our minds with flat beer and Eminem too early in the morning, TimL, 2 nameless lurkers, and Alex went to Peek-a-boo tower Memorial Day for a little adventure climbing. It was hot. Hot on the approach, little breeze, blazing sun. The approach is actually pretty damn short by Leavenworth standards, but the trail is primitive enough and the grind gets to you by the time you get to the base of the route. Because Alex had basically been shirking his leading duties all weekend, he voluntarily took the sharp end and prompty flailed up the initial 5.7 pitch in poor style. Belay in hot sun by small tree that offered no shade ensued. As everyone packs into the belay, send-bot TimL tackles the next pitch: slabby 5.9 with crux move off the belay, where pitching would land you 1) first on your belayer, killing him/her, then 2) to your death, as a dead belayer wouldnt hold your tumbling fall to the ground. TimL, 5.12-whatever climber, prompty grabs draws and yards through the crux on tension! Lemmings waiting on belay ledge get nervous. This pitch really 5.9? About this time, we notice the sunburns forming on bared shoulders. Later, at base of final pitch to West Face of Peek-a-Boo Tower, TimL decides he can't hold his bladder any longer, and modestly pisses away from the others lounging on the ledge, into the wind....giving "spray" a new meaning for the cascadecommies! As punishment, TimL is elected to lead the last pitch, a long 5.9 wide crack to an airy arete to the top of Peek-a-Boo Tower. The sun is blazing, we clip the pile of large pro to TimL, and away he goes. Hmmmm, sure is taking a while. This pitch is 5.9? Alex seconds the initial lead, leaving all the pro for the second party to "pinkpoint" to the summit. The climbing is initially fun and enjoyable, easy cruising. Even the start of the wide crack section is fun and nice. The last 10 feet of the crack are pure thuggery, and everyone has the exact same scrape marks in the same places on their right arms. The last pitch traverses right after the crack, to some friable flakey edgy climbing up the arete. The crux move, a reachy sketch job past a bolt, leads to the final knife-edged summit. Nice views, the wind has kicked up, the sky has clouded over, enough room for four on the summit. Nice way to end the weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted May 27, 2003 Share Posted May 27, 2003 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted May 27, 2003 Share Posted May 27, 2003 An enjoyable TR, to be sure. If I ever climb with you, I'll pass on the golden shower, thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrogers Posted May 27, 2003 Share Posted May 27, 2003 Better a golden shower than a mud-falcon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szyjakowski Posted May 27, 2003 Share Posted May 27, 2003 Alex- Sounds like you were on YardArt and yes that move is stout at 5.9 but thats what it is...I remember being heckled by capster for my "elvis syndrome" when making the move last year. Givlers area was nice and cool in the shade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted May 27, 2003 Share Posted May 27, 2003 Alex said: After two days of trashing our hands on various Leavenworth 5.3's, and trashing our minds with flat beer and Eminem too early in the morning, TimL, 2 nameless lurkers, and Alex went to Peek-a-boo tower Memorial Day for a little adventure climbing. It was hot. Hot on the approach, little breeze, blazing sun. The approach is actually pretty damn short by Leavenworth standards, but the trail is primitive enough and the grind gets to you by the time you get to the base of the route. Because Alex had basically been shirking his leading duties all weekend, he voluntarily took the sharp end and prompty flailed up the initial 5.7 pitch in poor style. Belay in hot sun by small tree that offered no shade ensued. As everyone packs into the belay, send-bot TimL tackles the next pitch: slabby 5.9 with crux move off the belay, where pitching would land you 1) first on your belayer, killing him/her, then 2) to your death, as a dead belayer wouldnt hold your tumbling fall to the ground. TimL, 5.12-whatever climber, prompty grabs draws and yards through the crux on tension! Lemmings waiting on belay ledge get nervous. This pitch really 5.9? About this time, we notice the sunburns forming on bared shoulders. Later, at base of final pitch to West Face of Peek-a-Boo Tower, TimL decides he can't hold his bladder any longer, and modestly pisses away from the others lounging on the ledge, into the wind....giving "spray" a new meaning for the cascadecommies! As punishment, TimL is elected to lead the last pitch, a long 5.9 wide crack to an airy arete to the top of Peek-a-Boo Tower. The sun is blazing, we clip the pile of large pro to TimL, and away he goes. Hmmmm, sure is taking a while. This pitch is 5.9? Alex seconds the initial lead, leaving all the pro for the second party to "pinkpoint" to the summit. The climbing is initially fun and enjoyable, easy cruising. Even the start of the wide crack section is fun and nice. The last 10 feet of the crack are pure thuggery, and everyone has the exact same scrape marks in the same places on their right arms. The last pitch traverses right after the crack, to some friable flakey edgy climbing up the arete. The crux move, a reachy sketch job past a bolt, leads to the final knife-edged summit. Nice views, the wind has kicked up, the sky has clouded over, enough room for four on the summit. Nice way to end the weekend. This TR has Capt. Caveman written all over it. Nice job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slaphappy Posted May 27, 2003 Share Posted May 27, 2003 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slaphappy Posted May 28, 2003 Share Posted May 28, 2003 "This pitch really 5.9?" No, it's 5.8. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szyjakowski Posted May 28, 2003 Share Posted May 28, 2003 slaphappy said: "This pitch really 5.9?" No, it's 5.8. is it? guess i was drunk or somethin then.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted May 28, 2003 Author Share Posted May 28, 2003 Szyjakowski said: slaphappy said: "This pitch really 5.9?" No, it's 5.8. is it? guess i was drunk or somethin then.... The first couple moves off the belay there on the 2nd pitch of Yard Art arent 5.8 unless you are really tall or something, IMO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crackbolter Posted May 28, 2003 Share Posted May 28, 2003 5.8d+++? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szyjakowski Posted May 28, 2003 Share Posted May 28, 2003 Crackbolter said: 5.8d+++? 5.8d will work juuust fine. IMHumbleO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted May 28, 2003 Author Share Posted May 28, 2003 I think thats 5.8===D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slaphappy Posted May 28, 2003 Share Posted May 28, 2003 Crackbolter said: 5.8d+++? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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