Peter_Puget Posted May 20, 2003 Posted May 20, 2003 Anyone else been on this route? It has the most painful freaking jamming I have ever done! Didn’t redpoint it but thinking of working on it this fall. PP Quote
erik Posted May 20, 2003 Posted May 20, 2003 ahh the 5.9. i dont remember how painful, its been more then a few years that i have been up that direction. tho i am sure i bled all over it. Quote
Peter_Puget Posted May 20, 2003 Author Posted May 20, 2003 It's quite a bit harder than 5.9 you must have been in great shape bck then! Quote
erik Posted May 20, 2003 Posted May 20, 2003 is it the .12??? i dont do names, just purty faces. if so then i am sure it is painful......... Quote
Szyjakowski Posted May 21, 2003 Posted May 21, 2003 Peter_Puget said: Anyone else been on this route? It has the most painful freaking jamming I have ever done! Didn’t redpoint it but thinking of working on it this fall. PP ah the TSkinhead root... hurts huh... what u think of bondage? I haven't done nnc but it looked like the crux was getting into it...if my memory serves me right....been a few years since i was there. Definitely looks cool, lets climb it soon. Quote
Jens Posted May 21, 2003 Posted May 21, 2003 Has anybody else beside Skinner done it? Wasn't there a reference to it on climbingwashington.com about how it was really supposed to be a 13 but skinner wanted to rate it stout becasue he was eyeing the real prize city park and didn't want to be called a soft grader? Looks like lock off strength will be critical for nnc--- to make the long reaches between the workable jams? Quote
Peter_Puget Posted May 21, 2003 Author Posted May 21, 2003 Jams are pretty technical unlike the cracks on Midnight plus the sucker really overhangs. I need to get back on the Gutbuster too came pretty close to doing that sucka! PP Quote
TimL Posted May 21, 2003 Posted May 21, 2003 What never never crack like. I think I'll lead it this weekend. I've looked at Gutbuster. Whats the climbing like? Quote
Peter_Puget Posted May 21, 2003 Author Posted May 21, 2003 Very overhanging crack. It’s short but really hard! You need two ropes to TR because it overhangs so much. Gutbuster is right of the road and very easy to TR. Short overhanging flared finger hand crack with, for me at least, mega reaches between jams. Perfect end of the day project. Hasn't anyone else tried or done these? PP Quote
Off_White Posted May 21, 2003 Posted May 21, 2003 Hah, I've put my hands in the first jams, that was enough. I liked the slanting underclingy thing to the right though. Quote
Szyjakowski Posted May 21, 2003 Posted May 21, 2003 Off_White said: Hah, I've put my hands in the first jams, that was enough. I liked the slanting underclingy thing to the right though. that would be bondage... very good climb! just some loose blocks at the crux move at the roof...hehehe Quote
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