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Posted (edited)

Woooohboy...it might be off a whole number grade and be 5.10c!! Whhooooooscaredshitless...

 

sheesh...

actually, current consensus has that thing at mid .11 range...so all this ballyhoo about it being "5.9" is BS anyway...

 

Edited by RuMR
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Posted

i have hangdogged a sport 5.12, but i couldn't hangdog a trad 5.12... i do almost NO AND I MEAN NO sport, but i can climb a grade and change higher with sport...wht does tha lead you to believe?

Posted
RuMR said:

Woooohboy...it might be off a whole number grade and be 5.10c!! Whhooooooscaredshitless...

 

sheesh...

 

if you are such a tough guy...have you led it? the_finger.gifdont shott your mouth off and talk shit about climbs that you can't/wont do because of fear and lack of strength/technique rolleyes.gif

Posted
Fence_Sitter said:

RuMR said:

Woooohboy...it might be off a whole number grade and be 5.10c!! Whhooooooscaredshitless...

 

sheesh...

 

if you are such a tough guy...have you led it? the_finger.gifdont shott your mouth off and talk shit about climbs that you can't/wont do because of fear and lack of strength/technique rolleyes.gif

 

Hangdogging "a" (as in "one") 5.12 is not climbing 5.12 is it? You flashing them? If not, you are a redpoint climber not a true 5.12 climber...do you consider yourself a 5.12 face climber?????? Is that what you are saying???

 

THe other point to make, is that there just aren't a whole lotta of OW's out there to go climb...so in general, most people don't get much of a chance to learn them...they are esoteric...

Posted
Fence_Sitter said:

RuMR said:

Woooohboy...it might be off a whole number grade and be 5.10c!! Whhooooooscaredshitless...

 

sheesh...

 

if you are such a tough guy...have you led it? the_finger.gifdont shott your mouth off and talk shit about climbs that you can't/wont do because of fear and lack of strength/technique rolleyes.gif

 

ummm never said i wouldn't climb offwidths, but seeing as i'm not in colorado, don't think i'll get the chance for that particular route...

 

I'll get on my fair share of ow this week in yosemite...

 

Why the hostility? Did i insult you???

Posted

fine i can climb 5.11c sport no promblem even though only about 5% of my climbs are sport... we are not talking about OW moves here...take libra crack...straight up crack... how many 5.10 sportos can climb that even on toprope? how many people who can climb libra, can climb 5.10 sport...95% at least...i'm sure... basing your arguments in teh farest obscurities of trad climbing (OW) is getting you nowhere...

Posted

and youthink ofwidth technique is a dated technique? do you think the cracks should all conform to your preferences so that you can climbing in your style? thing is, cragging is just practice to me...mabe that is our difference. i dont see it as an objective... that is perhaps where we differe and cannot reach consensus... you would choose not to climb OW because you dont have to, where i climb OW because i have to...because i will see it adn if i dont, i will get worked.... i dunno...mabe that is the reason we differ on the matter..

Posted

Listen...i'm not trying to fight w/ you...i don't understand the rag on sport climbing...its where you put your energy is where you'll shine...if you put it into bouldering, that is where you'll perform best...if you put it into overhangs, fine there as well...if you put it into cracks, you'll dominate in that arena...if you have enuff time you can put it into all facets and become a superb all arounder...some people could care less about sport climbing (maybe you?) some people could care less about crack climbing (maybe DFA) and of course their ability won't be as good in the arena they aren't focusing on...that is a no-brainer...

 

There are people that can just rip V10 boulder moves, that most people can't even hang on the holds, but then they'll tank at 15 feet of climbing...Are they piss poor climbers? NO...they just aren't into long enduro routes...

 

I didn't base my arguments in a rare form of trad climbing...quite the contrary...

 

And to me, 5.10 cracks feel like 5.10 face or 5.10 overhangs or 5.10 slabs...ie, they feel like 5.10. You get in a 5.10 hand crack and you can't fall on the damn thing...what exactly is your point?

 

 

Posted

Listen...i'm not trying to fight w/ you...i don't understand the rag on sport climbing...its where you put your energy is where you'll shine...if you put it into bouldering, that is where you'll perform best...

 

but that isn't true...i climb 95% trad... but i can rip on sport climbs (compared to trad) it is a full letter grade difference and i never even climb in the gym or on outdoor sport routes...so i disagree...mabe i am just weird like that...

Posted
Fence_Sitter said:

and youthink ofwidth technique is a dated technique? do you think the cracks should all conform to your preferences so that you can climbing in your style? thing is, cragging is just practice to me...mabe that is our difference. i dont see it as an objective... that is perhaps where we differe and cannot reach consensus... you would choose not to climb OW because you dont have to, where i climb OW because i have to...because i will see it adn if i dont, i will get worked.... i dunno...mabe that is the reason we differ on the matter..

 

I don't differ on the matter...if the route i'm doing has OW on it, then i'll climb the OW...I'm not sure where you are getting the idea i don't crack climb??? Can you point to where i said "dated"...i said esoteric...different word, as in "not common"...

Posted
Fence_Sitter said:

Listen...i'm not trying to fight w/ you...i don't understand the rag on sport climbing...its where you put your energy is where you'll shine...if you put it into bouldering, that is where you'll perform best...

 

but that isn't true...i climb 95% trad... but i can rip on sport climbs (compared to trad) it is a full letter grade difference and i never even climb in the gym or on outdoor sport routes...so i disagree...mabe i am just weird like that...

 

maybe you have some great natural abilities, like really strong fingers and good balance? So face will feel easier? Good for you!

Posted

are you playin' devil's advocate here!!!!!!!! This is a quote from you a little while ago...

 

"i had never thought abuot it before, but i climb about the same cracks and sport...i just thought i was an anomaly...i dont climb that hard (10) but i have noticed that people see mee leading 10's on trad and say het justmp on this 11 sport piece and i just flail... i had never thought that they might be even, but it makes sense what you are saying... "

Posted
Fence_Sitter said:

tha wa smy buddy jeff... i cant take the blame for all my posts that day, cause i had a lil soiree

 

I CALL BULLSHIT!!

 

HAHAHA!!!!!!!!

 

BULLSHIT......

 

BLAME SOME ON ELSE FOR POSTING...............BULLSHIT!!!!!!!!!

 

 

Posted

man...it's like htis...i am on these pills mushsmile.gif for my pneumonia...they are called devils...oh wait lemme get the package...devils advocate pills...they make me shir shit... but there is a problem...i think they are addictive yellaf.gifyelrotflmao.gif

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