Beta request - Rainbow Wall

[willstrickland]

Going to do the Rainbow in Feb. Wondering what I need on the pin rack for insurance. Anybody been up it recently. Reg route and/or Desert Solitaire

[erik]

http://www.rainbowpush.org/

will these guy have an idea for everything. check it out

[Dru]

orig route goes clean (and free...) leave pins at home! take lots of TCU. this info 3rd hand. take with NaCl.

[dbb]

weill, check out this page. A friend of mine who did it. I'm pretty sure that wall can go clean with offset nuts, but I've also heard of people trying to use their chock pick on some thin section on p2.

http://www.cs.washington.edu/homes/cary/rainbow.html

[willstrickland]

Thanks dudes!

I know it goes free...but at hard 5.12, not quite up to it I'll do everything in my power to make it go clean, sketchy runout cam hooking, #0 brass offsets, whatever...but I've been on sandstone routes that went clean a few times then some dumbass nailed it and it took a few pins to make it happen until those placements changed a little. Looks like we'll throw a couple of LAs, a baby angle, a blade, and a cheater stick on the rack. I got a few of those Lucky "right angle" pins from a Metoloius rep when they first started importing them, they're pretty cool for LA sized cracks, WAY lighter, and kinda springy like an angle, obviously not "hand down to your kids" stuff like LAs, but cheaper, lighter, and a decent shimming pin in tip stacked situations. Since all the info I've heard about the approach indicates certain hell, every ounce will count on this one. Then again, we may just stay back there and do both routes while we're there.

[erik]

quote:

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Originally posted by willstrickland:

Thanks dudes!

I know it goes free...but at hard 5.12, not quite up to it

I'll do everything in my power to make it go clean, sketchy runout cam hooking, #0 brass offsets, whatever...but I've been on sandstone routes that went clean a few times then some dumbass nailed it and it took a few pins to make it happen until those placements changed a little. Looks like we'll throw a couple of LAs, a baby angle, a blade, and a cheater stick on the rack. I got a few of those Lucky "right angle" pins from a Metoloius rep when they first started importing them, they're pretty cool for LA sized cracks, WAY lighter, and kinda springy like an angle, obviously not "hand down to your kids" stuff like LAs, but cheaper, lighter, and a decent shimming pin in tip stacked situations. Since all the info I've heard about the approach indicates certain hell, every ounce will count on this one. Then again, we may just stay back there and do both routes while we're there.

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will, you are right every onunce does count. so ration accordingly. oh wait thats not you were talking about. i want to skiing.

[willstrickland]

That rationing shit don't work, I rationed and my ounce has been gone for four days now with no replacmenet in sight...what happened to "Happy holidays"? What was that Counting Crows song...Mr. Jones? Yeah, that's me

[Cpt.Caveman]

More bounce to the ounce. My beta is go straight up.

[erik]

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=1&t=001091

there you go matt and will

[Dru]

real life quarter bag 25$ CDN.

[Matt_Anderson]

Hey Will,Was on the Original Route in October. Lats of micro's should get you through most of it. A good spread of hooks should get you through the rest (especially if you bring some cam hooks). Lots of finger sized cams! There's a wide section and you'll have to layback 5.11 if you don't bring anything larger than a # 3 camalot.

Caveat: we were tyring to free it, so we didn't have to place as often.

The hike's not as bad as everybody says.

Give me a yell if you want hauling and bivy beta, (there are a few sites at the bottom), sections that are fun to free at a given difficulty, etc.

Also, did a trip report in late October, but it looks like it is no longer on the post list.

Jon/L-bone - Is there anyway to access the old posts after they get off the list? I never copied it and would love to do so to have it around for memories!

Matt

[ 12-13-2001: Message edited by: Matt Anderson ]

[willstrickland]

Rockin Matt, thanks! I'll probably try to free everything up to about easy 11. I'll do an archive search for the TR. I've got dboule sets of offset brassies and a couple sets of regular micros. Between me and my partner we've probably got six sets of everything in finger sizes, I've got cam hooks, etc. Should be a cruise gear wise, good to hear the approach isn't so bad.

[crazyjizzy]

Did the Original Route in '93. Thought the first hard pitch was fairly difficult, and used a couple of pins. Up higher we placed a couple more, and may have used a cheater sticked on some bolts to avoid placing any more. The route is extensively bolted, and from my view hangng in ladders, sometimes needlessly so. I thought it was a moderate route, and never took anything special, including hooks, cam hooks, etc.

[ 12-15-2001: Message edited by: crazyjz ]