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Enchantments


Duchess

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People have been crawling all over the Stuart range the last weeks and there is plenty of info and pictures posted. The week has (again) been a very cold and overcast one, so snow conditions will not have changed above 5000.

 

Snow conditions are generally cold, unconsolidated snow above 4000. Everywhere. So if you are thinking S Face prussik, the answer is the same as the W ridge of prussik: long long snow slog with snowshoes part of the way to a route that is most likely very snowy and very very cold. You would not catch me climbing rock at 7000 ft right now, it was cold enough on Snow Creek wall last weekend. You might want to wait a month. Or two. AFAIK, Colin/Forest are the only ones to have climbed Stuart yet this year by any route other than Cascadian Cl. Stuart is completely plastered with snow right now.

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And FWIW, maybe I"m confused, but I've never referred to the stuarts as a whole as the "enchantments" The enchantments really only refers to the plateau and lakes as far as I know.

 

Other than that, what Alex said is right on. I'm sure any alpine ice routes that were in, are still in and probably great right now. I plan to climb some high elevation rock this weekend, but you'll catch me on easy blocky stuff.

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rain and snow most likely yesterday up there...as it rained breifly in icicle valley...almost sleet-like for a minute or two

typical spring conditions with a very nice-looking alpine snow pack. that is why i linked you to the thread w/pics of Witches tower. Those other threads are fairly useful if you wade carefully thru the bullsheit

but, that is what climbing is aboot

wade thru the bull to get to the goal! bigdrink.gif

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