TR - Stuart, NW Face Couloir

[forrest_m]

Colin and I climbed the NW Face Couloir on Mt. Stuart yesterday (4/27). This is approximately halfway between the N. Ridge entrance couloir and the Stuart Glacier Couloir, climbing a direct line to below the Great Gendarme, then up and right to the summit. The route is labeled “1984” in the brown Beckey guide, and is just left of Kearney’s NW face route. Unlike the lucky folks over on Dragontail, we encountered conditions that could be greatly improved by further freeze/thaw cycles, alternating between crux bands of rock covered with loose new snow and postholing on steep snow. There were a few short sections of nicely consolidated neve, but they were the exception. We did about 1500’ of roped climbing, simulclimbing all but the first pitch.

 

We hiked in to a bivy at the base of the moraine below the sherpa glacier on Saturday, approx. 4 hours from the car. We decided to risk going without snowshoes, and this worked pretty well on the approach. In the morning, we started on a firm crust but as we started up the steeper slopes leading to the Stuart Glacier, we began to breaking through on every step. We finally got up to the base of the route, some steep slabs guarding the base of the main gully. Our hopes were raised as Colin climbed the first 20 feet on sinker neve, but alas, they were the best tool placements on the route. Traversing into a corner on the right, things got interesting right away. The climbing was not really that steep, but it felt hard because of the insecure conditions: 2 inches of rotten ice with a coating of unconsolidated new snow.

 

The bulk of the elevation was a long 60 degree couloir. In firm conditions, this would’ve been great, but yesterday it was a slog. We wove back and forth, connecting exposed rock bands to place gear. Just below the great gendarme (where the original N. Ridge route raps in), there was a very fun 20’ rock chimney leading up and right, then more snow. The summit cornices appeared above. I picked a direct line up the blocky granite above the end of the couloir, aiming for the smallest part of the cornice. Groveling ensued, as I excavating loose snow to find dry tool placements. Though slow, this pitch was fun and very well protected. Pulling the cornice was exciting. I straddled an 80 degree fin of snow as high as possible while taking swipes at the cornice lip with my adze until I had worn the edge down enough to ram a shaft over the other side. My exit from the route had all the elegance of a sea lion pulling onto the beach, but it landed us less than 30 horizontal feet from the summit. Colin noted that when he and Marko climbed the same finish after doing the N. Ridge last year, they traversed around the corner left about 80 feet below the ridgeline and encountered easier climbing.

 

While on top, the clouds which had been swirling around all morning finally let loose with some snow, but it soon stopped. We descended back into sunshine in just a few hundred feet. The summit area was very cool, custardy rime ice coating any rock surface that protruded from the slope. It looked like the aftermath of an accident in a shaving cream factory. [From the constant buzz down in the Ingalls creek valley, the snowmobilers were also out enjoying the day (isn’t that a wilderness area?)] We descended almost the entire Sherpa Glacier in a sitting glissade, where coated nylon demonstrated its total superiority to gore-tex. For the next hour and a half, we regretted not having snowshoes, as our in-track did little to prevent us from sinking, but we still managed to reach the car by 7:30.

 

Under firm snow conditions, like in 2-3 weeks if clear weather prevails, this would be an excellent route, but yesterday was more like a 6 out of 10.

[Lambone]

Sounds like a cool climb even thogh conditions weren't great.

[klenke]

Nice TR, Forrest. Exciting, as usual.

 

I looked on the map and, yes, Ingalls Creek is in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness so the snowmobilers "shouldn't" have been in there. Maybe you were hearing all the way over to Teanaway River, which is not in the Wilderness and is a snowmobiler haunt.

[philfort]

Sledheads don't obey the wilderness boundary that runs along the Ingalls Pass ridge... and there's no one there to police them.

[Freeman]

Some of the local sled heads brag about riding to Goat and Stuart Passes

[Tod]

I have heard before that under federal law (or as an exception) snowmobiles were allowed in wilderness areas when snow covered by a certain amount?

[erik]

Tod said:

I have heard before that under federal law (or as an exception) snowmobiles were allowed in wilderness areas when snow covered by a certain amount?

 

NOPE NOTING IN THE ACT STATES THAT... AND PLUS AT INGALLS PASS THERE IS A SIGN THAT STATES NO MOTORIZED VEHICLES.. THOUGH ODDLY ENOUGH THE WINTER WEATHER MOST CONTINUALLY KNOCK IT DOWN YEAR AFTER YEAR.

 

AND HERE IS THE LINK TO THE WILDERNESS ACT 1964

 

[Tod]

I found some further info on the legality of snowmobiling in Wilderness areas and it is illegal. I guess since I've seen and heard of so many sleds in Wilderness areas I though it was legal. The following quote is from the Washington State Parks Website

 

In 1964, Congress passed the Wilderness Act, creating designated Wilderness Areas within national forests, national parks and certain other federal lands. This act prohibits roads, vehicles, snowmobiles and other motorized equipment from entering designated areas. While snowmobiles have little impact on the ground, they have substantial impact on surrounding wildlife. That is why they are prohibited in Wilderness Areas.

 

Unfortunately, illegal intrusions by snowmobiles into Wilderness Areas is on the increase. Sometimes snowmobilers do not know where the boundaries are, or may not realize an area is closed. To prevent the need for additional area closures and stronger enforcement, familiarize yourself with the location of restricted areas and respect the boundaries. Carry this message to snowmobile clubs and other groups.

 

For brochures showing the location of Wilderness Areas, contact the Winter Recreation Program at winter@parks.wa.gov.

 

Maps showing Wilderness Areas are posted on bulletin boards at trailheads in all snowmobile Sno-Parks.

 

For information on how to volunteer to put up/maintain Wilderness Area boundary markers, call your local U.S. Forest Service Ranger District.

I also found this funny news article on someone famous getting busted for sledding in a wilderness area. Check it out....