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Tree Route


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Last fall there was some discussion about the Tree Route on Eight Mile Butress. I can't find it in Search.

 

How many pitches? If I remember correctly, it's pretty moderate, near endless, chossy and easy to bail at any point. correct?

 

Unfortunately, I don't have the Leavenworth guide. Any beta would be helpful. Thanks in advance.

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If I remember correctly there is no tree anymore. It perished in the fire last year. Fred Rogers and I did this route a couple years ago. I think its 2 long pitches maybe 3 short ones. The first pitch is kind of hard to find but it’s on the left hand side of the buttress. I think you could find anchors to bail from probably leaving a little gear or there might be a nasty, down sloping ledge you can walk off of mid climb. Once you top out walk off to the right. If you go left you'll run into a slabby cliff system above Lazy Boy. While your up there sample Mr. Tremendous, Scholar with a dollar, Lazy Boy and Radio Sex. All really good pitches for their grade.

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Park directly across from 8-mile campground's entrance. You can either warm up on X-y Cracks- 5.5 (bring 2 3" pieces), 5.7 and a bolted .10 variation, or find the trail and walk around the top of X-Y cracks. The first crag on the right is J-Y crag (a good excerise in sandy flaring cracks). Continue N/NE on any of the various trails, angling up hill. You may lose the trail in a small talus field, but I believe there were cairns the last time we were up there, pick up the trail on the other side and follow it uphill to the buttress. The main (most eroded) trail takes you to the base of the (former) Tree Route- now marked by a blackened stump just up from the base. Mr. and Mrs. Tremendous are on another part of the buttress up and climbers right from the Tree Route.

 

We did 2 pitches. I made the mistake of grovelling up the dirty chimney/flake to start- it's better if you tackle the crack to the right of it and gain the buttress that way- maybe 5.6?. We did one more pitch up a groove to a wide, boot-buffed crack which is never harder than 5.4. If I recall correctly, it started raining as I followed Tim up the second pitch so we bailed after that. I think it was Cavey or Erik who mentioned something about additional pitches above. Bring shoes for the walk off. I did it in my rock shoes and regretted it.

 

 

Edited by fredrogers
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