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colt45

Red Rocks/Bishop/Owens photos

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I just got back from a GREAT trip over spring break. We started at Red Rocks with Eagle Dance (IV 5.10c A0), bouldered for 3 days in Bishop, spent a day at Owens ticking 6 clip-up routes, and returned to Red Rocks to climb Levitation 29 (IV 5.11c). We took a bunch of pictures and some of them were pretty good; I posted em with a moderately detailed trip report at:

 

http://students.washington.edu/mwschmit

 

check it out!

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Some great pics, especially like the ones of your mom and dad at the winery...

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lucky dog! it sounds like you had a great trip. Thanks for posting the pics.

 

is lev29 harder now than it used to (broken hold?)?

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The climbing was definitely good. (incidentally the winery was good too--free alcohol!)

 

I didn't know that a hold broke; where did this happen? The pitch grades on the Swain topo all seemed accurate.

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I didn't know that a hold broke; where did this happen? The pitch grades on the Swain topo all seemed accurate.

 

ok. I assume it is not too uncommon for holds to break there and I don't remember anything this hard. No big deal though. cool.gif

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colt45 said:

The climbing was definitely good. (incidentally the winery was good too--free alcohol!)

 

I didn't know that a hold broke; where did this happen? The pitch grades on the Swain topo all seemed accurate.

 

Hey, on that website, one of you guys is totally blowing the sequence on Chain Reaction! The part going up to the horn on the arete, it's all buggered up. Get the beta and you'll waltz it.

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Dr_Flash_Amazing said:

Hey, on that website, one of you guys is totally blowing the sequence on Chain Reaction! The part going up to the horn on the arete, it's all buggered up. Get the beta and you'll waltz it.

 

Could you fill me in on the beta, Dr Flash Amazing? I've been thinking about that route a lot, and hope to get on it again! Here's what I have in mind:

left hand on 2nd bolt clipping hold, right hand low on the arete w/ right foot on the arete & left foot flagging a bit, move the left hand up to something, then bump the right hand up to the good pinch on the arete, maybe switch feet and then reach up left to the horn. Switch hands, and clip the bolt! How does this sound? confused.gif

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purposefully engaging the DFA chainbetamatic supersprayer 9000?

 

 

...are you insane?

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Hey, I remember climbing with you when you were trying Kung Fu Grip...that dark haired guy in your photo is a friend of mine! Small world.

 

Nice pics!

 

 

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colt45 said:

Dr_Flash_Amazing said:

Hey, on that website, one of you guys is totally blowing the sequence on Chain Reaction! The part going up to the horn on the arete, it's all buggered up. Get the beta and you'll waltz it.

 

Could you fill me in on the beta, Dr Flash Amazing? I've been thinking about that route a lot, and hope to get on it again! Here's what I have in mind:

left hand on 2nd bolt clipping hold, right hand low on the arete w/ right foot on the arete & left foot flagging a bit, move the left hand up to something, then bump the right hand up to the good pinch on the arete, maybe switch feet and then reach up left to the horn. Switch hands, and clip the bolt! How does this sound? confused.gif

 

From the 2nd bolt clipping hold, get your right hand as high as possible on the arete (you may need to start a little lower to get your feet under you). Get your right hand up to the good pinch/thumb catch about a foot below the horn (you'll know it when you get it; if it doesn't feel about a thousand times better than the rest of the arete, keep slapping higher), then high step your right foot on the protruding part of the arete at about knee level. Once you're on the pinch, switch feet on the arete, and let your right foot just hang on the right-hand side of the arete, and then let go with your left hand and cross up to the horn on the arete. If you can't quite get the horn or if the move seems too sketchy, you can hit the pocket/slot just below the horn first, and then bump to the horn. Once you're on the horn with your left, slide your right hand around the corner to the "butter dish" hold, and clip the 3rd bolt off of that. It looked like you had the rest of the route figured right out.

 

Now go send! rockband.gifthumbs_up.gifbigdrink.gif

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