Deception

[Distel32]

this is sort of also a looking for partners post. Curious if anyone has been in the olympics lately and has any idea of snow level going up to deception. I've seen pictures of the route and think it could be down in the spring if snow levels are low, and you could find a non-avy prone route to the summit. Any beta would be much appreciated and if you're interested about doing it in a fw weeks let me know.

[nolanr]

I might be up for that. I've been thinking this could be a good year to get into Royal Basin early in the year. Also interested in Mt. Clark in the Needles.

[Distel32]

yeah from over here the mountains don't look too covered, but with the snow that's undoubtedly there it'd have to be done over two days instead of one like a summer trip. I was thinking around april 5 or 12. sometime around then when the weather is good.

[nolanr]

Distel32 said:

when the weather is good.

 

Man, I've never caught good weather up there, but I'm definitely interested, keep me posted on a possible trip.

[Stefan]

I was in the nearby area on March 9th (after the big snow dump we had) by Tyler Peak. I was able to drive to 2600 feet in a Honda Civic without snow problems. Higher clearance vehicles could probably have made it to 3000 feet. Snow accumulations on the ground didn't really start until 3500 feet. When I was at 5000 feet there was probably about 2 feet of snow. Due to this information an early season trip into this area definitely sounds possible.

[Distel32]

whoa that's pretty crazy, I think the trail head is at 2500. Thanks for the update stefan!

[Stefan]

I think you have to drive to 3400 before you dip back down to the trailhead at 2500 due to the detour. I am not sure about this though.....

[Distel32]

you are indeed correct, checked the topo and sure enough, thanks for the heads up!

[Fairweather]

Even in a "normal" snow year you can usually access Royal Basin by May 01. The lake won't be melted out, but you wont hit snow until you pass the lower meadow. I've climbed Deception, Fricaba, Warrior, others in that rain shadow area....always in late April/early May. Should be good access this year too!

[Distel32]

fairweather-

is there a good route up the face, rather than going to the right, where you could swing some tools? or have you done the class 3 or whatever gully up to the ridge? in pictures it looks like you could get in a compact snow ice route which could be awesome. think that's possible?

[Fairweather]

Here are some pics. The face just above the basin is about 40 to 50 degrees and had tracks on it when we passed it on our way to do the "normal" Deception Glacier. Looks like it would be a beautiful climb! Note: photo shows about the top 50% of the face. "Honeymoon Route" goes up the couloir to the right of the big black tower.

[Fairweather]

...the normal route. Gilhooley Tower on right.

[Distel32]

awesome pics and thanks again for more info. well now it looks like I have to get out there in the next few weeks and get in some alpine stuff!

[Norman_Clyde]

I tried going up the main face in late July 1998, a very warm day, alternating between small mushy snow patches and loose muddy rocks. The guidebook called this a class 2, as I recall, which may be why some more casual hikers have tried it and gotten themselves killed. It really sucked in summer conditions, and I eventually backed off to go the other way. But in the spring this direct route ought to be fine, if snow conditions are stable. There were huge avalanche paths into Surprise Basin below the peak, which had lasted well into summer.

[jhamaker]

The rock is choss. Good to stay on snow when you can. Be prepared for lots of micro navigation in white-out.

If you want to lug in rope and tools there is a gully or two you cold use them on and you would not have to climb so much choss. Gullies though will collect rock-fall from above. Otherwise just scamble your way up and over and to the summit.