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Life of cams???


Greg_W

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I took a good fall this weekend on a .75 Camalot; upon inspection, it looked like it didn't fare too badly: the plastic sleeve over the cable was abraded and one of the cams has a little dent.

 

This brought up a question: Do cams have a life cycle? Do they need to be replaced after so long or so many falls? I know that the sewn sling should be replaced at a certain interval, but what about the solid components?

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Cams do have a life-span, but it depends more on wear (use in sandy rock will shorten the life as will use in marine environments) and the force of any sustained falls --not a set number of falls. In the past, I've shifted my older cams to the aid rack and bought the shiny new ones for freeclimbs.

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Greg_W said:

I took a good fall this weekend on a .75 Camalot; upon inspection, it looked like it didn't fare too badly: the plastic sleeve over the cable was abraded and one of the cams has a little dent.

 

This brought up a question: Do cams have a life cycle? Do they need to be replaced after so long or so many falls? I know that the sewn sling should be replaced at a certain interval, but what about the solid components?

 

Recent investigation about cams on Metolius' website indicates that unless the cam lobes have really grievous wear, i.e. they're out of round, or if the lobes move a lot on the axle, indicating that the holes for the axle are ovaled out, you're probably in good shape. Barring other obvious structural damage such as frayed cables, etc.

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