[TR] Porcupine Peak - Salad Days 5.11a 08/23/2025

[Grant789]

Trip: Porcupine Peak - Salad Days 5.11a

Trip Date: 08/23/2025

Trip Report: Climbing and Crowds on a Newish Classic

 

Liza, Kurt, Marc, and I headed out over the weekend to climb the newish @dberdinka and @lunger route, hoping for some fun, remote climbing in one of our favorite zones. After a solid week in the Sawtooths earlier this month, Marc and Liza were feeling strong and psyched to push their grade. A climb with bolted anchors, mostly in the 5.8–5.9 range with a single splitter 5.11- pitch sounded like just the ticket.

We left Easy Pass trailhead around 8:30 a.m. and made quick time along the PCT before turning off on the climber’s trail toward the base. Following the approach line on Mountain Project’s map turned out to be super helpful. The first 400 feet of trail were a bit schwacky, but we soon hit a more established path. Liza and Kurt had climbed Arrested Development (5.10-) the year before and found the climber’s trail felt way more "developed" than last season.

The approach took us about 1.5 hours. When we arrived at the base, two parties were already on route with one finishing P2, the other starting P1. As we snacked and racked up, three more teams arrived behind us. We were expecting maybe one other group… not SEVEN! But everyone was friendly and in good spirits.

Liza and Kurt headed up first, with Marc and me climbing behind. Some highlights from the day:

• P1 (5.8) starts with a fun, heady mantle protected by a bomber cam just below—great start.
• P2 (5.9) was a blast: good jams, a wide layback crack, a delicate face move, and then a bolted jug haul to the anchor. Super varied and enjoyable.
• P3 (5.11-/10+?) was the crux: Liza and Marc led it and totally crushed it, especially considering it was their first 5.11- trad pitch. Liza took a quick rest for finger pain and Marc got the onsight. Tape on the left pinky was nice beta. This pitch gobbles up nuts and will take all the 0.2s and 0.3s you’ve got.
• P4-6 (5.8/5.9) The next three pitches served up moderate jamming, laybacking, stemming, and some delicate bolt-protected face moves between crack systems. By then, four of the teams (including us) were stacked on top of each other, climbing around and over each other. Fortunately, everyone was having a great time and the vibe stayed positive and chatty.

After a quick scramble pitch, four teams topped out at the false summit together, took one look at the awkward mantle to the true summit, and collectively said “nah.” Instead, took some photos and all combined our 70m ropes for a mega party rappel down the route using all the techniques (carabiner block, simul rappel, gri-gris, ATCs, single-strand, double-strand)!

The rappels were straightforward. Though it’s unclear whether the party-rappel saved us time or cost us some, but it sure was fun. Unfortunately, one of the ropes got a coreshot on the final rappel….

We packed up and made it back to the cars by 7 p.m., tired and happy.

Final thoughts:

• The climbing was well protected throughout.
• The rock was a bit slipperier than expected.
• A great route for pushing into the low 5.11 range in an alpine setting.
• Thanks to Darin and Eric for putting up this route and all the work to clean and bolt it! 

 

Party climbing!

 

Summit selfie!

Gear Notes:
We brought triples 0.3-0.5, doubles 0.2 and 0.75-1, singles 2-4, and a set of nuts (many sm-med). An ideal rack would be doubles 0.4-1, single 2-3, set of nuts (many sm-med), and as many 0.2-0.3 cams as you want to carry (triples or quad).

Approach Notes:
Follow PCT until

Edited 3 hours ago by Grant789