[TR] Cutthroat Peak - South Buttress (Attempt)

[Grant789]

May 31, 2025

Cutthroat Peak: South Buttress - West Ridge (Shoulder Season Attempt #2)

This was my second shoulder-season attempt of the South Buttress - West Ridge of Cutthroat Peak, and my second time bailing due to conditions. The first was back in October 2023, when we turned around after climbing the chimney in icy conditions and finding snow blocking us high up in the notch. This time, an incoming rainstorm shut us down.

Alex and I had a lazy start, leaving the trailhead at 8 a.m., thinking we had plenty of time and daylight. The forecast called for partly cloudy skies all day. Since I’d been on the route before, I figured it was a perfect re-attempt to ease into alpine season. Alex was also getting back into trad climbing after a summer or two focused on running, so we thought this would be a great way to get her back in the saddle.

We bushwhacked a bit trying to find a creek crossing, then made our way into the meadow and started the climb toward Cutthroat. Such a cool area, it really has that mini-Alaska feel. But it was hot heading uphill in my thick climbing pants. About halfway up, I started overheating badly. I ended up stripping down and hiking in my underwear... a first for me.

We reached the gully, which was still snow-filled. After a snack break, we strapped on crampons and pulled out our axes. The snow climb was straightforward and fun, with a snow bridge and a bulge/bridge midway up for a little added spice. The bridge probably won’t last more than another week or two before it turns some rock/snow shenanigans.

Off the snow, we roped up and reached the ridge crest by 11. From there, it was mostly mellow ramp scrambling with a few low-5th class moves. The wind was noticeable along any exposed sections, and about halfway up, it started getting colder. Low, dark clouds began to roll in. We checked the inReach forecast, moderate rain was expected by 3 p.m. Still feeling optimistic, we decided to keep going for a bit, knowing we might have to bail.

Alex led the chimney and chockstone pitch and started getting comfortable on lead again. I took over for Pitch 6, leading flakes and cracks, which was super fun climbing. But as I belayed, I looked south and saw the nearby Southwest Cutthroat Peak getting swallowed by clouds. By the time Alex joined me at the belay, the clouds had drifted in below us. With visibility dropping and no knowledge of the West Ridge descent route, we decided it would be more fun get beers in town with our friend rather than get caught in bad weather.

Descending the South Buttress was a bit of a mess. Lots of faffing about to find rap anchors through snow and brush. Visibility kept getting worse and it started lightly snowing. In trying to rappel as far down as we could to avoid the snow gully, we got the rope stuck and had to leave some gear behind. And we still ended up above the snow gully. Classic. Eventually, we put crampons back on and used our axes to downclimb the gully in light rain.

The hike out went quickly, despite a fat marmot on the trail looking like it wanted to fight us. The rain picked up as we moved down, and the upper half of Cutthroat vanished into the clouds. At the creek crossing, we were soaked and tired and just walked straight through the water instead of finding a better route. We got back to the car around 5:30 p.m.

All in all, it was still a fun and engaging day in the mountains. Maybe this route’s just saving itself for a mid-summer send.

Gear: Single rack, slings, crampons, axe.

 

Captain underpants

 

Up the gully

 

Bailing

 

Downclimbing near the snow step/bridge

 

AK vibes (sans road)

 

Who needs a log?

 

Bailed

[JasonG]

Great TR @Grant789!  Please keep them coming this summer. 

And, everyone,  this is a good example that sometimes the attempts are just as compelling for the eyes as the successful.  Even if there was no summit (and no party), we still want to cry in our beers with you! 

[olyclimber]

I too will take beers over being stuck up in bad weather. Thanks for the TR!

[Grant789]

Thanks both! Chicken fried steak and a Methow Blonde at Three Fingered Jack's is hard to beat!