[TR] Illumination Rock - Skylight (though now it's skylight-less) 11/20/2023

[bedellympian]

Trip: Illumination Rock - Skylight (though now it's skylight-less)

Trip Date: 11/20/2023

Trip Report:

 

Artem and I took advantage of some high pressure to climb Skylight on the N face of I-rock Monday 11/20. We found the route to be longer than anticipated (perhaps due to glacial recession or lower snow pack in November?) and climbed to the ridge in 4 pitches. The first pitch was lower angle but involved thin verglass at the start and facet snow with a thin rime crust perched on the rock slabs above, the unstable snow layer on any low angle rock continued for the rest of the route (50m M3). Second pitch was fun and had a fair bit of rock exposed as the angle increased (50m M4). Third pitch climbed lower angle terrain to a physical corner and finished with insecure snow on rock meandering to below the final crux where I stopped as I was already low on gear (30-40m M5, doubles from .5-3 would be nice here). The fourth pitch was a short but strenuous up a corner and then stemming through steep stacked blocks to the top (10m M5). We declined the traverse to the summit as it was south facing sun baked rime mushrooms on slab that were collapsing. We rappelled from a horn on the ridge that had a lot of tat. One double rope rappel and a little down climbing got us off via the South Chamber. Overall, this is a fun route that I would recommend, a little shorter than NY Gully but higher quality and more sustained climbing.

 

Also of note... the rock arch that formed the "skylight" that is the routes namesake is gone, the East Skylight which has a slightly harder route to it is still there. Based on observations we think this fell down in the past year.

Here are some pictures...

Nice shots of the S face from the approach:

Reid Glacier:

The route from the start of the roped climbing:

Perspective from the first two belays:

Looking up at our P3:

View of Castle Crags and Reid HW:

Reid Glacier / Yocum Ridge / St. Helens / Adams:

Belay below the last bit of climbing:

Artem approaching the penultimate belay:

Summit of I-rock on the right and Reid HW behind:

Artem on the final moves:

Rap horn on the ridge:

Pulling ropes in the South Chamber (luckily the rime was slush at this point and we weren't too worried):

Walking away, one last view of the S side of I-rock:

 

 

Gear Notes:
Double from fingers to fists (hexes could be nice for the second set in the often Scottish conditions), lots of nuts, slings and a few pins.

Approach Notes:
Hike to the saddle and drop down to the North. Look for the obvious weakness in the face.

Edited November 21, 2023 by bedellympian

[olyclimber]

Nice!

[Alex789]

Strong work !!!

[DET]

Great photos!