[TR] Forbidden Peak - East Ridge Direct 07/22/2023

[Nick Sweeney]

This might be my least favorite route on Forbidden, but paradoxically the 5.8 crux might be the best pitch on any of the classic ridge routes on the peak. Unquestionably worth doing! No snow gear is currently needed if descending the East Ledges.

 

Full TR and photos here: https://spokalpine.com/2023/08/01/forbidden-peak-east-ridge-direct-iii-5-8/

[JasonG]

Yep, too high on the East ledges descent, but sounds like you knew that.  Pretty accurate assessment of the the East Ridge as well- pretty awesome mountain to have that route as its least "classic". 

Definitely my favorite peak in the North Cascades!  By favorite I mean the mountain I've climbed the most times by the greatest number of routes.  That is how I figure it at least, it is like picking your favorite child.  I have one more unique ramble on that peak left to try I think, but I have no doubt that I will climb it as long as I can afterwards.

[robertm]

I agree with @JasonG -- great peak all the way around and probably my most frequented in the cascades.  I have climbed it many times from all directions.   S. face sort of scares me due to reputation and I still haven't done the NW Ridge which looks really good looking at it from N. Ridge.

[Nick Sweeney]

10 hours ago, robertm said:

I agree with @JasonG -- great peak all the way around and probably my most frequented in the cascades.  I have climbed it many times from all directions.   S. face sort of scares me due to reputation and I still haven't done the NW Ridge which looks really good looking at it from N. Ridge.

NW Ridge/Face/Buttress/Arete is as good as it gets. Truly one of the best all-around adventures you can have as a climber in the Cascades. Do it!