[TR] Chimney Rock - Free Friends 07/06/2021

[Nick Sweeney]

Trip: Chimney Rock - Free Friends

Trip Date: 07/06/2021

Trip Report:

God damn! This route is incredibly high quality and STOUT at the supposed pitch ratings of 5.9+, 5.10c, and 5.8+.  It was a real pleasure getting up to Chimney again... better than I remembered.  Full report with photos: SPOKALPINE

Gear Notes:
Doubles .2-4, triples .75-2. We used it all.

Approach Notes:
Sounds like the Western approach is the fastest option, and I've heard tales of being able to cross over to the East Face on the south of chimney rather than hiking around the North side. For this trip, we took the Eastern (Pack River) approach to enjoy the scenic hiking and try something new,

[mthorman]

Yea we climbed Free Friends last week and approached from the Priest Lake side.  Once you get to the saddle just before going up to Roothaan you can take a trail around the north side of the mountain that stays high and crosses to the east side of the crest just north of Roothaan.  From there it is a pleasant walk along the east side of the crest to the East Face of Chimney Rock.  Approach is only a little over an hour this way!  Oh and the route is really good quality.

Edited July 27, 2021 by mthorman

[Nick Sweeney]

Right on Marlin, that’s some fantastic beta about that approach. 

[Dane]

Nice photos on the TR Nick.   5.9+?   Not sure I have ever climbed it with anyone that thought it was.  But grades change with the times.    

As Marlin mentioned above, the easiest approach  for effort (I've done all of them many times over)  to the East Face is drop off the saddle on the north side of Roothaan and almost immediately head right (east) on the climbers trail to the next saddle north of and below Roothaan.  Go  around and behind the ridge that will eventually become Chimney rock proper.   Stay really high on the slabs on the east side of the ridge (some 4th class will same so serious effort) that eventually leads to Chimney rock proper.  Only reason I could ever see to come in the Pack River road was if you lived in Sandpoint. 

How about a couple more photos you   The crux on 2 and looking down from the sinker hand jam on 3. 

Edited November 23, 2021 by Dane