Torment Forbidden area info???

[Jarred_Jackman]

Anybody been on this traverse lately and have recent conditions?  Thanks

[NikiY]

I planned on climbing the West Ridge of Forbidden on Saturday 07-03. I ended up bailing at the third stream crossing before Boston Basin. There were some people ahead of us who presumably made it across, but we didn't want to risk it - the water levels were really high at 7am, it would have been dangerous to cross it then and I can't imagine how bad it would have been on the way down in the afternoon. For reference, the first stream crossing was noticeably worse on the way out than the way in (only about 2 hours later).

Conditions may have improved since then - one big problem was that further upstream the stream was surrounded by collapsed snow bridges and downstream it got wider. There might be a better crossing now as more snow has melted out.

Also Cascade River Road is closed about 4.5 miles from the trailhead, so I would recommend bringing a bike.

[picozza]

I stopped by the Taboo glacier this Friday (7/9). I can only compare with 2020/8 (third week of August last year), but Boston Basin and Torment Basin snow coverage is about 20% more than it was on 2020/8:

2021/7: Snow below waterfalls in Torment basin, some bivy sites covered with snow in Boston Basin

2020/8: No snow below waterfalls in Torment basin, no bivy sites covered with snow in Boston Basin

So snow coverage is relatively good despite the heat wave. The real surprise was the Taboo glacier: Despite more snow and higher&smaller moats with respect to 2020/8 (good news), the bergshrund was huge, fully extending the full width of the glacier. Much wider, deeper, and longer than 2020/8. Only a bordeline snow bridge on the far left allows crossing (belay advised). It may be gone soon. Beside that, a very questionable crossing option would be descending into the schrund debris blocks on the far right, step on rock, and then climb an unprotectable rock band with downsloping holds. There are a couple of wet slab moves at the very top before getting to the snow above.

The 4.5 miles of road closure was covered in 1 hr and 30 minute with a steady pace and heavy pack.

2021/7 Taboo glacier bergshrund:

Snow bridge at the far left:

Questionable rock crossing on the far right (it would require to descent down into the bergshrund on some blocky debris):

2020/8 Taboo glacier bergshrund:

[jamiekee]

Can't comment specifically about conditions on the traverse, but I was on the NW face of forbidden on July 4th weekend. The Boston basin low camp is snow free. Stream crossings were manageable for us, mostly hopped between rocks, occasionally the wet shoe. These pics may give a good idea on conditions on the traverse

Entering the basin, forbidden in center:

 

Torment from forbidden glacier:

 

[seano-]

On 7/10/2021 at 10:18 PM, picozza said:

So snow coverage is relatively good despite the heat wave. The real surprise was the Taboo glacier: Despite more snow and higher&smaller moats with respect to 2020/8 (good news), the bergshrund was huge, fully extending the full width of the glacier. Much wider, deeper, and longer than 2020/8. Only a bordeline snow bridge on the far left allows crossing (belay advised). It may be gone soon. Beside that, a very questionable crossing option would be descending into the schrund debris blocks on the far right, step on rock, and then climb an unprotectable rock band with downsloping holds. There are a couple of wet slab moves at the very top before getting to the snow above.

I was there 7/11, and while the snow bridge was intact, I wasn't about to cross it.  The debris crossing to the right wasn't so bad staying left on the rock. One could probably traverse back left on snow above the 'schrund, but it is also possible to reach the ridge by continuing up and right, tunneling up a moat and under two chockstones. It was pretty much smooth sailing after that.

Descended the ledges, ran into JasonG on the way.  Good times...