[TR] Mt Hood - Devil's Kitchen Headwall (DKH) 04/02/2021

[chrisc88]

Trip: Mt Hood - Devil's Kitchen Headwall (4/2/21) DKH

Trip Date: 04/02/2021

Trip Report:
Climbed on 4/2/21, very solid climbing conditions.  Not "super fat", but still very possible to get good sticks and place screws and protect without any rock gear or pins.  

Full trip report:
http://gethighonaltitude.com/2021/04/03/mt-hood-the-devils-kitchen-headwall/

Gear Notes:
Screws, pickets

Approach Notes:
South side, you know what to do

Edited April 5, 2021 by chrisc88

[zaworotiuk]

I'm glad someone else "enjoyed" our "useless variation" at the top 

I also did the "right" exit above the crux that you mention last weekend. I'd never gone that way but recalled the book mentioning it. It was... weird. Not totally clear where to go and we ended up belaying a short section of traversing downclimbing to get onto the finish of the Wy'east route.

[Nolan E Arson]

Nice work! 

I enjoyed your trip report. Haha, caveat emptor to those who follow the steps of @zaworotiuk! 

I’m going to try your tool/picket combo the next time I find myself doing battle with the steep sugar snow. 

Edited April 5, 2021 by Nolan E Arson

[chrisc88]

12 hours ago, zaworotiuk said:

I'm glad someone else "enjoyed" our "useless variation" at the top 

I also did the "right" exit above the crux that you mention last weekend. I'd never gone that way but recalled the book mentioning it. It was... weird. Not totally clear where to go and we ended up belaying a short section of traversing downclimbing to get onto the finish of the Wy'east route.

Oh that's interesting and unexpected. I think we'll give it a shot next time we are up there as well haha