[TR] Glacier Peak Wilderness - Mt. Berge, East Ridge (IV, 5.8) 08/25/2019

[Kyle M]

Trip: Glacier Peak Wilderness - Mt. Berge, East Ridge (IV, 5.8)

Trip Date: 08/25/2019

Trip Report:

2000 ft of solid granite in a sea of choss? It sounded too good to be true, so two half-Asian Kyles made the trek out to the East Ridge of Berge. We found decent climbing but really cool exposure in a beautiful setting. Unfortunately, we also found rain and clouds where there was supposed to be sun, which added to the adventurous feel of the route. We reached a definite 5.8ish chimney crux at the start of the fifth tower (yes, there are six towers before the summit, starting from the notch to the right of the Twin Gendarmes). The route took us about 6 hours to climb simul climbing almost the entire thing, so if you plan on pitching it out, plan on a long day. Or two.

If you want a little more beta, check out https://climberkyle.com/2019/08/25/mt-berge-e-ridge-5-8/.

Hiking through the burn up the east ridge of Cleator.

The east ridge of Berge from the approach.

We climbed up the dirty gully to the right of the twin gendarmes.

Typical ridge terrain.

This was the most fun, exposed climbing.

About to enter the clouds.

Endless towers in the mist.

Beautiful basin between Berge and Buck.

Quite a bit of nasty alder descending from Buck back to the trail.

Gear Notes:
Standard rack of cams. Nuts aren't super helpful but work in some sections.

Approach Notes:
The east ridge of Cleator has burned in the last few years but is still pretty clear so easy to travel. Follow game trails off the ridge to the south around 5600 ft and contour into the basin north of the east ridge of Berge. Easiest descent is down to the Berge-Cleator saddle. Descend from the Buck-Berge saddle like we did at your own risk.

[JonParker]

That looks really fun (except for the shwacking) and beautiful, thanks for posting!

[genepires]

another cool obscure mountain TR.  I like where we are going.

thanks for the TR.  very good photos too.