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Alisse

[TR] Sherpa Peak - West Ridge 07/29/2019

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Posted (edited)

Trip: Sherpa Peak - West Ridge

Trip Date: 07/29/2019

Trip Report:

 

Andres and I climbed Sherpa Peak's West Ridge (low fifth class) yesterday in a long car to car day.

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This was a super fun route with excellent rock, fun moves and lots of easy route options, great views over to Stuart and down on the currently very broken and naked Sherpa Glacier, a rap line that follows the route, and views of the balanced rock (we did not venture over to it)! We simulclimbed most of the route with a doubled 60m half/twin rope and that worked well for us. 

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The crux, from the south side at least, is definitely the up and down nature of the approach, which ends with a seemingly never-ending slope of boulders, talus, and sandy scree up to the notch immediately west of the ridge. I had somewhat hastily added up the elevation gain from the Mountaineers beta page information and came up with 5,900' total elevation gain, but Gaia told us after all was said and done that it was 7,100'. Ah ha, that's why we are feeling it...We spent 15 hours away from the car, and Gaia also said the trip was a bit over 13 miles.

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I had packed for this trip more than a week prior, with another trip between, and I somehow forgot my rock shoes, my helmet, and my headlamp. Negative partner points for sure. Luckily Andres had a helmet I borrowed, my approach shoes were totally fine for the route, and my phone provided the flashlighting needed to get back down from Long's Pass!

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Really fun route in a great setting, lots of wildflowers, and I really enjoyed seeing the sunset and then the Milky Way out there. Beautiful.

Gear Notes:
1 60m half/twin rope (we brought two ropes, as we had read multiple reports of a necessary double rope rappel, but that was not true)

Approach shoes

Light alpine rack with plenty of double length slings

Approach Notes:
Over Long's Pass, cross Ingall's Creek, take the turnoff into the meadow, and don't lose the trail there!

Edited by Alisse
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Nice!  You sure do get out; I'm jealous.  Looks like a stellar day.

Weekend before last I did a multipitch route with three people, one rope, and two harnesses between us, so don't feel alone in forgetting some equipment and making do anyway. 

  • Rawk on! 1

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