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ken4ord

[TR] Mt. Slesse - NEB 07/19/2018

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Trip: Mt. Slesse - NEB

Trip Date: 07/19/2018

Trip Report:

Anyways went up and climbed North East Butress on Mt. Slesse with friends Chuck and Yale on July 19th-21st. Great trip full of adventure. 

Went up on the 19th, on the way up got the truck stuck and had visions of spending the weekend digging the sucker out. Luckily after a half hour of piling rocks and digging out the undercarriage we were able to drive away and continue as planned. 

The plan was to hike to the view point today and check out pocket glacier, there was word that it was still in place. Which it was, we hung out for a while listening and watching and all seemed good and stable, but not completely reassuring after hearing tales of it sliding from the likes of Otto. Anyways we decided to give it a go and check it out. 

The next day we were up at 2:00 and hitting the trail at 2:30, from the parking lot. The plan was to get to the glacier before the sun hit it. 

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It appeared our plan worked out since we arrived before the sun and things seemed quite stable. After a quick crossing we were finally on the climb proper and we could put all the apprehension about the glacier behind us, though I kept thinking what if we need to retreat. Luckily that didn’t happen. 

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6DBE588C-2040-479E-BAE9-88586403F9EC.thumb.jpeg.00f44dbc17f762d3a742d8075432c747.jpegNot much to say except it was a stellar climb with lots of pitches. Chuck led the crux 10a in good style with an big overnight pack on. We were running short on daylight towards the end so motor out the class 4 scramble at the end, but we’re still benighted and spent the night on the summit. 

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Since it was a planned bivy I was quite comfortable I had a sleeping bag, even had coffee and muesli in the morning though cold. It was by far one best bivy I have had on a climb. 

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The crossover descent was sort of uneventful, though there was still a lot of snow slopes in place, which probably slowed things down, but we eventually back down to the car around 4:00pm on the 21st. 

Can’t stop thinking of the climbing and can’t wait for my Upcoming Matterhorn trip. 

Gear Notes:
Alpine rack

Approach Notes:
Missed the parking lot on the drive in. Basically where there is a sign pointing to Mt. Rexford is where the parking is for Slesse.
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Thanks  Ken!  Always great to see an old familiar face!  Congrats on tagging this one, and enjoy the Alps!  I'm not climbing anything, but will be in the Alps next year.

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I have to think that there were :pagetop: on the summit??!!!

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