first ascent [TR] Central Cascades - NW Butress Sloan Peak FA 09/23/2000

[kukuzka1]

Trip: Central Cascades - NW Butress Sloan Peak FA

Trip Date: 09/23/2000

Trip Report:

Never did a trip report the mark b and myselfs first ascent of the NW Butress of Sloan peak, so I will do a short one now.  Late September 2000 we started up the left side of the broad west face, on the dark rock slightly right of a sharp crest. first pitch is funky balancy climbing on not greatly protected rock(5.8+ish) heading for a dead tree near the crest. Pitches 2-4 climb up thru trees, a small rock step and a grassy gully(wet when we did it) topped by a large chockstone. climb up behind a huge rock pillar to a ledge to begin the teririble traverse rightward. luckily its short, until you can climb up blocky fun mid 5th rock to the top of the black rock.(great bivi) wish could have gone strait up the rock instead of the traverse but the rock looked hard (for us) and slabby. From the top of the black rock ascend just left of the pinkish, rotten rock slightly onto the northern face via easy rock, heather and small trees until you reach an obvious right facing corner/chimmney. starts easy(5.7) and gets harder as you go with the end being on small crimps with small cams for pro (5.9+ish?) Then follow the narrow heather bench rightward to the top of the steep west face(impressive bivi!) climb strait up the crux via cracks (fixed pin) to a small sandy ledge. From here it eases going up and rightish, many variations possible. We exited via a nice shortish hand crack (8+) to the upper mountain. scramble to sub-summit then the main summit. IV 5.8/9 It has 4-5 good pitches and 4-5 not very good ones, with 3rd and 4th class scrambeling

Gear Notes:
medium rock rack, small to 3 inches, 8-10 slings

Approach Notes:
same as for West face-Bedal creek

[kukuzka1]

if moderators can put in FA that would be great

[JasonG]

done @kukuzka1!  Thanks for the report!

[kukuzka1]

A FEW PHOTOS

[kukuzka1]

BUNKER LEADING THE CRUX PITCH

[JasonG]

That's a long looking route @kukuzka1!  I've climbed the West face and that looks almost double.  Cool!