Preferred Kautz Approach

[Bdubs]

Debating between Paradise approach and the Comet Falls approach for a 3 day climb this weekend.  Any special thoughts/suggestions from those with experience on the Kautz?  Quite curious to see what the very warm weather will do to the Lower Nisqually.  Much appreciated! 

[jstluise]

I haven't seen any real recent reports but based on previous years the approach from Paradise should be in okay shape. If The Fan is out you can always head up higher and approach via the Wilson Glacier bench.

[ScaredSilly]

The last couple of times I have gone via Paradise and the Wilson. If you have a full three days and want to see some less traveled terrain start low. You can always go up and over, come down the DC, and hitch back to your vehicle.

Edited July 12, 2018 by ScaredSilly

[Bdubs]

Yeah @jstluise, I haven't seen any sort of reports/updates for a couple weeks.  And thanks @ScaredSilly, Friday mid-afternoon to Sunday.  The Comet Falls approach sounds like a nice change of scenery compared to the Paradise area. 

[jordansahls]

Here is a TR from someone going up to Paradise from 6 days ago:  https://www.wta.org/go-hiking/trip-reports/trip_report.2018-07-07.2517868071

They took a picture of the Nisqually glacier if that helps.  Can't see the Fan but the upper section looks doable (you can see ski tracks coming down on the left side of the picture).

[Kameron]

Rangers have a report: http://mountrainierclimbing.blogspot.com/2018/07/kautz-route-update.html

[Bdubs]

Thanks for the info.  The Wilson gully ended up being totally fine!

[jstluise]

@Bdubs, when were you on the route?  Three of us started out Friday morning, bivied around 11,100', and hit the summit Saturday morning (carried over to the DC).  We also took the gully approach.  We were all alone on the route, but did see what looked to be some headlamps coming up the lower Nisqually (maybe the Wilson) at around 3am when we woke up Saturday morning.  Thought maybe it was a group doing it in a single push but we didn't see anyone the rest of the morning before we were out of view of the Kautz.

Edit: just saw @dave schultz's TR on the single push up the Kautz and down Tahoma.  Those are the lamps we saw Saturday morning.  Nice work, Dave!

Edited July 16, 2018 by jstluise

[Bdubs]

Must have just missed us!  Think I saw you guys high on route.  We started Fri later afternoon, camped low, and moved up to 13k on the wapowety and camped there on sat.