Fromage Posted February 3, 2003 Share Posted February 3, 2003 Spurious condition reports be damned. Ignore uninformed speculation by people who sit in front of computers (myself included). There is lots of ice to climb in Lillooet. Over the course of two days my partner(s) or I climbed nearly every route that was climbable on the lower tier of Marble. Most lines are eminently climbable, some are wet, some are chandeliered, but many are plastic and healing quickly. The indefatigable Mr. B even climbed the M8 corner route, including a short fall on the fourth bolt and a couple aided moves through the overhung bit, but overall a lovely bit of work. If I could somehow affix my crampons to my kayak the second pitch of Icy BC might go, but right now it is a gushing tube. The third pitch was also a bit damp but featured three very graceful lines. The pencil route on the right by the pine tree on the ledge is coming in nicely, may be in good shape by the festival. Today there was also an interesting rescue involving a drunk ice fisherman, but maybe I'll go post about that on Spray. Unfortunately there were a bunch of Rude Fucking Americans there who were so loud, obnoxious, and incompetent that it made me embarrassed to live in the western hemisphere. They knocked off so much ice it was disgraceful, they could have found work for the Soviet navy as nuclear icebreakers on arctic voyages. Oh wait, that was January 18-20, sorry for the confusion. As it was, I brought my acetylene welding torch (alpine model, of course) to superheat my picks and crampons so they would melt into the ice with each placement, thus avoiding all fracturing, dinnerplating, shattering, and other icefall that is so insulting to the true elite of our civilized sport. An observant point by jja. I, too, noticed the colorful commentary in the Mile 0 guest log. I am duly thankful for the information contained therein. Were it not for the incontrovertible evidence in those pages, I would never have known the truth about certain CC members' sexual orientation or their apparent lack of respect for others. May good weather, good conditions, and safe climbing await you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jja Posted February 3, 2003 Share Posted February 3, 2003 hey fromage, did you hear any thing recent about any other ice? nobody that I asked had any beta other than marble/rambles. I'm probably going back next weekend and am going to shoot for oregon jack or something in bridge canyon plus marble again (got to lead icy bc this time). That group of 7 in the van were ok guys, their leader colin was cool, but every body was complete newbies, so the hack-o-rama was to be expected. At least they kept it confined to that one area. On saturday they were on the lower pitch of the right rambles with one tr setup and everybody else bouldering on the bottom ramp - that's 14 swingin tools. It didn't look like they were going to get out of the way, so I rapped right through the middle of em rude-euro style. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jja Posted February 3, 2003 Share Posted February 3, 2003 An observant point by jja. I, too, noticed the colorful commentary in the Mile 0 guest log. I am duly thankful for the information contained therein. Were it not for the incontrovertible evidence in those pages, I would never have known the truth about certain CC members' sexual orientation or their apparent lack of respect for others. So do we reveal the true nature and hidden life of one of cc.com's sprayers? or do we keep the dark secret in the closet - so to speak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fromage Posted February 3, 2003 Author Share Posted February 3, 2003 That group of 7 in the van were ok guys, their leader colin was cool, but every body was complete newbies, so the hack-o-rama was to be expected. At least they kept it confined to that one area. They are good guys. I talked to several of them at Marble, a couple of them recognized me from the rescue last year at the Rambles. We were grateful for their help and on this meeting I was impressed by the group leaders who seemed pretty well-organized. My Rude Fucking Americans comment was a parody of my own party's behavior on the weekend of Jan 18-20 and some of the reactions to us written on this board. It didn't look like they were going to get out of the way, so I rapped right through the middle of em rude-euro style. Excellent! You have the attitude necessary for success in Chamonix. Sorry, no other beta on other areas, but my uninformed conjecture is that if Marble was that wet, other, lower routes are beyond Hope (literally and figuratively). Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryland_moore Posted February 3, 2003 Share Posted February 3, 2003 Fromage, which group were you with? The two guys and girl (who was super-strong) or the party from Kamloops or Kearney party? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fromage Posted February 3, 2003 Author Share Posted February 3, 2003 Ryland, I was with the guy and the super strong girl. Unless I am mistaken it was I who lent you/your buddy the tools to adjust his crampons. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryland_moore Posted February 3, 2003 Share Posted February 3, 2003 You may have lent them to John, we were climbing on Weeping Wall just to the left of you. Were you the guy who went up first or had to wait for the helmet and put the dog up by the car? I was the one wearing the blue/gray cloudveil and jja aka John was wearing the black jacket with the Quarks. Hope to see you out there soon! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted February 3, 2003 Share Posted February 3, 2003 deeping wall. weeping wall is 600km east of marble canyon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted February 3, 2003 Share Posted February 3, 2003 My Rude Fucking Americans comment was a parody of my own party's behavior on the weekend of Jan 18-20 and some of the reactions to us written on this board. Uhuh Uhuh! Right on Fromage. At least you were out there bashing some ice down I think I'll pass on any ice in the near future since I am spoiled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryland_moore Posted February 3, 2003 Share Posted February 3, 2003 Sorry, that's what I meant. Many climbs in the area have similar names to their Rockies counterparts. Any reason why? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted February 3, 2003 Share Posted February 3, 2003 there are rockies climbs called Waite For Spring, and Icy BC? Deeping Wall, is a pun on Weeping Wall and I believe, a reference to the wall around Helm's Deep in the Lord of the Rings. Ask Don or Garry, they named it! Carl's Berg, is the only other one Im aware of that is similar to a Rockies name and it is cause it so much like Carlsberg Column, and it was 1st climbed by Carl Austrom so the name is doubly fitting! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted February 3, 2003 Share Posted February 3, 2003 Actually a good title for this whole thread would be Invading Orcs Seige Deeping Wall Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.