Moderate sport climbing in Squamish

[csels]

Hi all,

 

This is my post on these forums! Me & my girlfriend will be travelling to Western Canada & Alaska in July for four months - as part of a 14 month long trip around the world. This looks like a great community and place to share and read climbing experiences so I decided to join.

 

We were planning to spend around 7 nights in Squamish in mid July to do some easy/moderate sport climbing. Our level isn't much - around 5c+ in French gradation - which would equal ~5.8-5.9. We haven't done much trad climbing so don't want to get into that in Squamish either. Seems safer! I read that Skaha would be better for sport climbing but we would prefer spending our time around Squamish for the nearby scrambles etc. So we hope to find some crags there that are in our ability range.

 

At the end of August, we will also visit Lake Louise to do some days of sport climbing there.

 

I found a filtered list for our level here:

https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/canada/squamish/routes/with-grade/FR:1a:5c+/with-gear-style/sport/?sortby=at,desc

 

It seems these are viable options:

* Murrin Park

* Smoke Bluffs

* Crumpit Woods (the Courtyard)

* Area 44

 

Could these crags be fun for us? Also, some nice camping grounds recommendations would be appreciated.

[genepires]

Star Chek! 5.9. 3 pitch. Easy approach. Rappel down to river and climb back to highway. Very scenic.

 

I have the whistler rock climbs guidebook but I have no idea if that is still available. If so, that would have other option for you as well.

 

There must be other guidebooks available for sport only climbs. I am old school and need to work with guidebooks and not the smartphone. You would prolly find other ideas online too.

 

There are sport climbs tucked in and around the classic trad areas in Squamish as well. Usually bolted slab climbs is that is acceptable to you.

[matt_warfield]

For moderate sport climbing I wold also recommend "Chek" which is a conglomeration of crags just north of Squamish. Squamish thrives on traditional but also has sport but plenty are adventurous slab climbs, an acquired taste.

 

Check with a climbing shop or gym in Vancouver, Squamish, or Whistler to get the straight scoop from local experts.

 

Also, this site is declining in popularity so you might check some other internet sources for further info. Gene and I are old school and stubborn so still log on now and then.

Edited April 14, 2017 by matt_warfield

[csels]

Ok cool, thanks for letting me know. Any other forums that are more active?

 

The Cheakamus Canyon area looks cool. By then I hope to be climbing 5.9 comfortably so that I have some more options.

 

I don't mind climbing slabs. We did nothing else for a week in France last year and I've grown to like it. Less hard on the elbows too

[Apdavids]

If you're looking for other resources, I would suggest Mountain Project. Just did a couple quick searches. On the Squamish page, they do list some possible accommodations for camping and such.

 

Mountain Project Squamish Sport Route Search

 

MP Sea to Sky Corridor Sport Route Search

[matt_warfield]

 

I don't mind climbing slabs. We did nothing else for a week in France last year and I've grown to like it. Less hard on the elbows too

 

By "adventure" I mean run out especially in higher grades. Nothing like lots of rope above the last bolt to make you rethink your likes and dislikes.

[genepires]

Try these guys

 

https://squamishclimbing.com/squamish_climbing_bb/

 

[Khoi]

My top recommendations for moderate sport climbing in Squamish are Area 44 AND The Pillary.

 

The Pillary is not in any current guidebook as development wasn't completed in time for guidebook printing.

 

The Pillary is the extension to Area 44! As you approach Area 44 you will come across a fork in the trail. There will be a sign pointing right for the base of all climbs, and left for the top of all climbs AND The Pillary. Go left. Further down that trail, after passing The Distillery (topo: https://www.quickdrawpublications.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/topos/Brohm%20Lake%20-%20Distillery%202.jpeg Text: https://www.quickdrawpublications.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/topos/Brohm%20Lake%20-%20Distillery%201.jpeg) there will be a sign directing you to turn left to get to The Pillary.

 

Here's the topo for The Pillary: https://www.quickdrawpublications.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/topos/Brohm%20Lake%20-%20The%20Pillary.pdf