daler

Matt- your post about never hearing about injuries from short falls makes me roll. Most of the injuries I have seen and heard about have been because of short roping during a fall. Ask Allison about both or her broken ankles. But also to defend you there has been almost no talk about the responsibility of the leader during a fall. Most people fall like stiff stick people instead of graceful cats. Also the leader needs to evaluate the terrain as they are climbing and keep the belayer posted as to what kind of catch they want. dale

Skyclimb, If you set it up in ascension mode it works great as a TR solo device as long as you have reasonable holds to pull the slack through the device. Pretty much fail safe and better than the GRI GRI. Dale

I know about the normal hardman linkups done by sig isac(sp) and such. But wanted to find out what others have done. Couple of fellas I know on Sunday linked the grand via cruel shoes and the chimneys-rock on/squamish buttress to angels crest to deidre. and they were enjoying cold ones by 5pm. I've linked the grand via cruel shoes to rock on to deidre to st. vitus dance to the smoke bluff conection. What other moderate link up have you done. dale

Climb Godzilla then when rapping vear to the left and set up a tr on Bat Skins. Its first pitch is 11a But You should still give it a crack. It is a fine pitch. You will need to set a couple of directionals as the pitch traverses a bit. Dale

Nice Tr I just climbed the Casual Route on the Diamond of Longs peak and though a 5 star route I still think the South Face is a Better Climb. That white Granite is perfect. Some of you NW hardmen/women should put up some more lines on that wall. It is beckoning to be explored!! dale

Duh!! of course if you are belaying direct from the anchor the device needs to autolocking. This is why I mentioned it. It saves so much time as you can eat, stack the rope, prep all the gear for the next pitch etc...... all while bringing up the second.

You must have not thought it through. The distance from the anchor to the harness is the same if using a knot on the rope to hang from or not. The only difference is the knot. If you are not using the rope as an attachment point to the anchor it still runs down to your harness so this distance is unusable in your book. If your not fast enough to take off the belay at any point you should pratice some more. An essential alpine skill!! No need for the leader to stop! just take them off.

Well it hasn't happened in 15 years so far. 1- The distance from the anchor to the harness will always be there even if the rope is not part of the anchor. 2. The distance from the anchor knot to the belay device is not a factor. When the leader is almost out of rope just take them off belay, at this point keeping them on belay is useless as your body will act as the belay. You can use this extra time to prepare to climb and save time. 3. The knot only takes up 4" of rope. No explanation needed there. Dale

When belaying from the top if you redirect the belay through the anchor then to your harness the force is twice the amount it would be if you belayed direct off the anchor or direct off the harness. Dru- I think you are flat wrong about using the rope as part of your belay. Its faster, safer and when done properly uses no extra rope. But you are due your own opinion. Never once has this been a issue for me. dale

Dru, I'm surprized that a supposed alpine guru like yourself would make a comment on this. If the leader is almost out of rope just unclip from the anchor and get ready to climb. If its a hanging belay just clip in with a sling and wait for the the belay. BTW- If you set it up correct it doesn't take any extra rope. dale

All I can say is why not always use the rope as part of your anchor. You are tied into it and its ready to go- use it! Also with so many modern belay devices I can't believe so many people still redirect through the anchor and then belay off the harness. Not only does this double the force on the anchor(not a problem with bomber bolt anchors) but it is a pain in the ass. Just belay of the Anchor. Dale

I had a 84 1/2 for about 8 years. This was the first year with the water cooling. I sold it with 203,000 miles on it and a rebuilt engine at 102,000. Just remember to see if the heads have been replaced and like others have said change flush the coolant once a year with a dealer. Westies are the shit. You will have so much fun. I upgraded to a Eurovan which is definately and step down in character but faster on the open road. Remember the westies have small engines and are very heavy so 65 is pushing them. I think this is why so many people have problems, they try and push them to fast. The time all works out the same because you don't have to set up camp. And make sure you wave to all other westies on the road. A cult group forsure. dale

I would say stick with the Anasazis! Just get a bigger size. I use tight miuras for high end climbing and a bigger pair for long routes. Its nice to know how the shoe responds. dale

Yeah, I ran the vin and I would be the 3rd owner. It has not had any accidents or funky stuff reported to carfax.

Hi folks, figured I would get a faster response here than on a toyota site. I"m buying a used truck and have found a 1998 toyota tacoma extra cab 2.7 liter manual, air, no cruise. It has 115,000 miles on it which is a bit for 98 but the truck is in good shape. I had it checked by a dealer and they think it is a sound truck. Do you think 8,800 is a good deal? thanks, dale

Not to mention they are the ones spearheading the anti Gale Norton effort. The feds want to release millions of acres in Utah from protection. BD had the balls to stand up and fight. Way to go BD!!!

I like sport climbing!!!!

cool!! see ya out there. come ready to pull!!! dale

Looking for a partner for weds- 7/2. anybody game? dale

No, they were super bomb!!! Had to be pulled!!

It's damm hard to thread those pins while hanging on the fingerlock below them. Have you tried? If they are not preslung they are useless while leading. So they should be removed or have slings on them!!! dale

Does that mean you would prefer if i don't put the slings on? I dont' mind not having them there but thought is was a nice community service so folks could clip em if they are sketching! dale

Does anyone know why and who took out the upper two pins on Ironhorse at Index. Not really a problem as the gear is still Ok but just wondering. Also why did they not take out the lower pins as there is also gear near these. And who the fuck keeps cutting the equalized webbing I put on the lower pins?? You can't fit a carabiner through them as they are way bent. Dale

Kiwi, I work for Cascade Alpine Guides and we run 4 1/2 day trips on the Emmons Glacier, they include all the food and cooking, and a summit bid. As much instruction as the weather allows and way to much fun. I think there are a few spots left for the summer. I believe the price is around 1150$$ with all group gear provided. Cascadealpine.com Dale Remsberg

In response to the list of climbs you list a popular guided climbs. Most of the climbs you listed are off limits to comercial guiding. I think only the climbs on Castle, givlers and maybe dragontail are OK. And I'm fairly certain only 1 or 2 companies can guide the N. ridge of Stuart. And as far as impact goes I think most profesional guides do a better job than the general public. I spend much of my time while working trying to educate the public on how to take care of the wilderness. dale