daler

Dale, it is true to the extent. But the avi forecast is moderate even in the alpine (which is rather rare). while we saw a lot of natural activity on S and SW slopes, I only saw old, old debris from several days to weeks ago on N slopes. We walked to the base of Nemesis without skis- when were you able to do so last time? Just making sure folks know there are still some very touchy places out there. BTW I a have walked in and out of Nemesis at least four times without skis(without postholing) the last time being last year:)

I would still use some extreme caution. There are a lot of hard slabs sitting over a bunch of facets. This can lure you into thinking things are stable. I'm sure some things are but in general the rockies snow pack is a bad as it has been in a while. Stay safe out there.

Great thread- Couple of thoughts- I don't think its easier to hang with out leashes its just easier to get less pumped and easier to keep your hands warm and faster to place gear. who ever posted that if you have never placed 15 screws in a pitch means you have never done WI 5 or climbed strange ice is way off- Yes its ultimately safer to place more gear but I have not even carried 15 screws in more than 10 years and have done hundreds of WI 5 and WI 6 pitches. I actually place more screws on WI 3 and 4 pitches. My standard rack for screws is 10-12. 4 for belays and 6-8 for the lead. Also leashes are a " to each his own" topic- I have not used a leash in over 7 years including big mountain routes in Alaska, Canada etc etc.... Anyway- The conditions in Canmore are fantastic although the new snow will make things tricky for a bit- Last week was amazing with killer stability. Happy swinging- DR

To add to Buckaroo's report- Been in Canmore for a month- Once of the best Feb/March ice seasons in recent memory(15 years) A bit warm as of recent but north facing stuff is in great- Been mostly in the ghost- Hydrophobia- driving in the Waiparous is in great shape and have only needed chains once for the last hill- have climbed it 3 times in the last 3 weeks and it is in great shape. Sorcerer- trail is good and river crossing has a good log for crossing-have climbed it twice in the last week and it is in good conditions- replaced 1st and 3rd anchor stations with new cordalettes. Green Angel- Only about 1.5 hours to this rare route that is in good shape- Have climbed it 3 times as of recent and replaced the top anchor with a new cordalette. A little sun bake at mid point but still good pro. Get it while its good- Wicked Wanda- great shape- good line on the left and new bolt anchor at the top- I forged a cool WI 6 line out the center roof. It has good screw placements up under the 5 foot roof. a fun harder variation at the moment- All other usual stuff that is not in direct sun is in great- Cheers, Dale

Mike- The production ones are indeed bigger and fit like the old viper fang- shoot me an email! Cheers, Dale

I wore these boots today in Vail- Low temp of -9f and high of 4f back at the car in the sun. My feet were plenty warm all day- I was working so I was not moving a ton and had no problems! They are lighter than the nepal evo and climb every bit a good or better. Vail is a bit thin for this time of year but Designator is in! Cheers, Dale

Anybody stayed in the Akai motel before? how clean is it and is it worth the bargain? Any other good steals out there? Yes I have done the hostel thing for many years. Give me hotel beta? I'll be there for a month. Cheers, Dale

Hi All- I have done many of the moderate classics at WA Pass and was hoping to get some beta for some of the harder less traveled routes- Passenger? Any other new modern classics? What have you hard Men and Women been doing at the pass- Freedom rider? I'll be working in the North Cascades for 12 days and then will have 2 1/2 days at the pass to send with my wife- Any suggestions would be great- Note: I'm very familiar with the areas as I grew up in Mazama so all the small talk beta is not needed! Cheers, Dale Gravityguide.com

Another update: In the ghost the last three days- More new snow but so far the drifting has not been! Best driving of the last month- Temps at Marker 39 were 3 F yesterday at 7am and only got up to 24 at 3pm. Climbed THOS yesterday and GBU- Both in fat shape- Dirty harry appears to be in! climbed Wanda two days ago still great- Professors a bit wet three days ago but still good- Cheers, Dale

Check out this link- Everybody chip in what you can and maybe skaha will be open to climbers forever- Dale

Ice Lovers- I'm still in Canmore- I have climbed 17 out of 19 days so far and thought I would give a quick update- The temps have been super warm but the north facing climbs have been great and are still in good nick!!! As long as it has not been getting sun it should be good to go- I have been checking temps at the climbs and highs at the base of the stuff I have been climbing has not been above 35f and 25-30 when arriving at the base- Here are some of the routes that I have climbed in the last week- cold air is coming and don't hesitate to make it up as the season is far from over- Right weeping wall- the warmest climb I have done and the sun is getting to it- Louise- Still good but watch afternoon sluffing from above- Wicked Wanda- still in perfect shape and have done it 3 times so far- Sorceror- perfect- 3 laps to date and more to come- Hydrophobia- climbed today and good and steep but perfect ice! Drive into Waiporous is good to just past second crossing and then chains will be needed- Only 1.5 hours from there though! Cryo is starting to fall due to its exposure to the sun!!! 7 more days and then off to Red Rocks- yeah desert!!!!!! Hope this helps!!! Cheers, Dale

Come on guys- I have 19 days in a row that I still have to ice climb before I'm off to Red Rocks so keep the warm talk down for a while! Just kidding- I love the cold!!!! but can't wait for the warm! Cheers, Dale

Hi All- Read below for the updates- Just spent a couple of days in the Ghost- The driving is tricky for sure!!! But I was able to get my toyota truck with with 3 inches lift and chains into the North Ghost- Tracks are in and should be a go!!! snowing when we left today but not forcasted to get much. Sorceror was good and a little bit harder than most years due to low traffic- Hard 5 out of the cave at the moment- Wicked Wanda in shape- Probably 5- Climbing is not pumpy but slightly tecnical! Also climbed- Right Weeping wall in great shape and Proffesors is Huge! All for know but I'm here for a month and will post when I can!! Cheers, Dale GBU and This house of sky in great big fat shape- Indifferent is good as well at 4- Fist and the Fang is up but the walk might make it not worth it. Louise Falls is a steal up the middle of the pillar but a 5+ line is perfect just left of the hooked out line. Haffner a little thinner than usual but all is fat enough for the top out but probably puts a + on most of th mixed lines- All for know but that was the last 3 days! Cheers- Dale

Yes- Pins should never be placed where natural gear is available or almost available- Remember someone may have more balls then you and you should save that experience for them- Also if no natural gear is available(crag setting)a bolt does less long term damage then a pin- Once a pin is placed in the crack it is forever bigger- A bolt can be removed and patched leaving the crack in tact for future generations with better skill and gear. Cheers, Dale

Depends on the kind of anchors! A lot of gyms use large round stock steel tubes for there anchors- 6 or more inches in diameter- If you put an extra rap around it it will increase the friction alot and make for easier belaying with folks that are light. it also makes the ropes last longer as they are sujected to way less impact force during TR falls. Even though the forces are already small they make them even smaller and save the ropes. Obviously if they are carabiners this will not work. dale