Zenolith

I spent 4 days in the B Top area (March 24-27) and attempted to climb on 25 and 26. On 25 the wind was roaring inside the crater and we could not see 10' so we bailed and went skiing down lower where the wind was tolerable on Moon Mt. On 26 we headed up into deepening snow but calm winds until I did a shovel shear at the base of the headwall and found 1.5' of light powder on a thin ice crust which sheared very easily. The snow below the crust was unconsolidated corn, too soft and deep to adequately protect. We saw some small sluffs and it was still snowing so we decided to push our luck no further. We went to some steep gullies at 7800' and did some of the best powder skiing I've done all year.

I really dig my Marmot Eiger. Very minimalist and just enough features to be functional and very lightweight. It is also very comfy.

Has anyone done this route and want to spray about it? Is the rock in the upper third as crappy as the rest of the Cascades rock? I've seen the route in Oregon High..rather non descript. I don't want any pitch by pitch commentary 'cuz I like to carry stuff and then not use it..or better yet, bring the wrong stuff and then end up with unprotected hanging hip belays. Anyway...

I have some old WC rigid stem Friends and a 0-Metolius that need new slings. I've never done this b4. What do you all recomend? These things are old and severely beaten but I still use them. Is there any guideline for retiring a cam when it is old but not damaged?

both sold

The bent shaft is now sold. The straight w/hammer is now $130.

@#%%&**!!! Grrrr!! Thanks for the news.

The question of bolts being necessary or not is up to the first ascent party. They apparently gave permission. If we apply ethics like that one (1st ascentionist gets last word) selectively all ethics will lose meaning. <donning helmet>

add a couple of backslashes and it'll work . Nice site Matt, thanks for the info.

50cm, yes, ok.

Alex or anyone, Has the Yakima ice been in at all this year? I'm thinking of going there in early March but it seems too warm to hold out hope...

...$160 for the bent grip w/ adze and CM safelock leash and $140 for straight w/ hammer and safelock. Both tools are in great shape. I'm selling b/c I want lighter tools. They retail for $235 each.

This seems like a topic for the "Newbie" board. On spring break (March 21-Apr 1) I am planning to go on an ice climbing trip with a few other people. I can go anywhere between Lee Vining and Lilloet and plan to spend 3-4 days (travel time not incl.)with a little TR-ing to warm up and then leading on WI2-3. Here's the question: In the interests of ethics I don't want to go somewhere where 2 teams would dominate the routes since we may be slow or on TR. Granted the better climbers will be on harder routes, but sometimes the first pitch of a WI4 is WI2-3. The other consideration is this; I want to go somewhere that has enough potential for 3-4 days considering the spring break crowds. The nearer to Eugene the better. Ice rarely forms here, and will not be forming this year, so I must travel. BTW, if there is anyone out there willing to drag a "newbie" up some ice, I'm that guy.

Going off the end could be avoided by tying in short yes?

I'm looking for an insulated parka to use as a belay jacket. I think I would prefer synthetic insulation since it will get wet on occasion. What do you all use and how do you like it? I can get TNF and Marmot at wholesale (but I don't like TNF stuff) so if you have opinions on those let me know. I will pay full price if there is something substantially better out there. What is the best insulation for its weight? Is there a shell material that breaks wind and sheds precip. better than others?

Do you mean Crater Rock? Not quite 9800' I think...

I think it depends on the person and their opportunities for sport or trad as well as their access to a competent partner from which to learn. In my experience it is easier to get good on sport routes than it is to gain gear placing skills. I trust fewer people to teach me to place gear than those I trust to trade belays up a sport route. I know that if I don't get better at placing gear I will not be able to climb harder routes in the mountains. I will not run out a .7 in the mountains like I will a .6, but if I don't learn to place good gear (or don't have it to place) I can only either a)run it out or b)bail. All that to say; Learning trad first, or at least in combination with sport, is a better to learn if you want to last.

I've been using BD Stoppers and have a full set but I was thinking of getting some of the more often used sizes (6-10 for me) in another brand. First, I've never compared different brands to see if the sizes are the same or similar accross brands. Does anyone know? Second, what brands do you all like? Has anyone tried the newfangled types like Omega's Tri-Nuts which claim to fit 3 different crack sizes? Metolius Curve Nuts are curved in more ways than Stoppers. Does this seem to offer any benefit to those of you who use them? What are your opinions on hexes and nuts which are slung w/ spectra? I don't mean the biggies but the smaller ones that are usually wired.

Maurice, I wear a one-peice tiger striped leotard under my clothes.

My post seems to have a lot of people's panties in a bunch! Its amazing how a simple request for information (the kind one finds in some guide books) has everyone whipping it out with a ruler... The people with big ones either kept quiet or emailed...

dps and eric, You guys are so studly! I'm sure you're studly enough to know that there are places on Hood (leuthold comes to mind, although the two pins I saw were probably not for a rapp), and other peaks, where people have left pins for their own rapp which are sometimes useful when a later party rapps the route. Mt. Hood has not always been a wilderness area and many pins have been placed there. Some are left behind. I was not asking if it was bolted for the ascent, but I get the feeling neither of you have been up those routes anyway since you both act like such snobs.

Hey, I have trouble finding partners in Oregon who want to travel north to Washington to climb ice. I am in Eugene and would really like to meet up with people to go spend a couple days climbing ice or icy peaks. Any takers? Also, some one suggested climbing the N. Face of Hood (the couloir right of the cleaver) or the Elliott Headwall. Any info on those climbs like; fixed anchors, how to protect, etc?

db, I am at a similar level as far as the ice climbing goes. I live in Eugene but will go north to climb ice. It is hard to find partners way down here where the nearest ice is in the Columbia Gorge (if we're lucky). I have some gear (tools, screws) and am anxious to get more practice.

Hey Geordie, I live way down here in Eugene but am willing to travel north sometimes. I would like to climb the Leuthold in Jan. and am an aspiring ice climber with a little experience in crevasses. I need to learn to lead both rock and ice. So far I have led sport and easy alpine routes like Cooper Spur and Mt Jeff. Email if interested.