erik
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Posts posted by erik
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but why would offering a differing opinion be considered flak? i could see if the author was way off base on either end of the spectrum, but as it seems we all agree that grading is a consensus how what that arise if outsiders did not attempt to voice their opinion?
and i think a person who puts up a route and is looking for only positive feedback and thinks that is all they deserve is an idealistic and self serving thought.
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jason i dont see anyone attacking mcclane. i see them questioning his grading. he seems to inflate the grades with each new edition of his book. that is the question.
and because someone puts up a route does not make it theirs....if it is onl public land then it belongs to all us citizens. a route developer should consider this when installing permanent hardware. the hardware no longer belongs to them, as i see putting up a route shows intent to share.
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jason
the technique might not be the exact. but the ability should be about the same for the grade.
if you are claiming yourself as a graded climber, you should be able to comfortably send anything in that grade, no matter the stone or technique required.
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Sphinx said:
Karate Crack
5.9 MAYBE 5.9+
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Alpinfox said:
A previous discussion of the sandbag phenomenon
To quote Erik:
"Yose and Index are on par, the rest is just practice"
i would like to build on that statement. tieton are also reasonable in their grading of routes. have not done many of the new routes at the tieton so i cannot say, but i have a feeling that they will be on par with the rest of the area!
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ehmmic said:
The route is only about 35 feet in length. Isn't that more of a highball problem. Seems like a stretch to call it a route.
i would like to see you boulder it. or better yet solo the m9 with your tools and poons?!!
changes things eh?
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i liked the opening of the song machine gun on the band of gypsys.
JIMI:
"HAPPY NEW YEAR FIRST OF ALL. I HOPE WE'LL HAVE
A MILLION OR TWO MILLION MORE OF THEM... IF WE
CAN GET OVER THIS SUMMER, HE HE HE. RIGHT I'D
LIKE TO DEDICATE THIS ONE TO THE DRAGGIN' SCENE
THAT'S GOIN' ON ALL THE SOLDIERS THAT ARE FIGHTIN'
IN CHICAGO, MILWAUKEE AND NEW YORK... OH YEAS, AND
ALL THE SOLDIERS FIGHTIN' IN VIETNAM. LIKE TO DO
A THING CALLED 'MACHINE GUN'."
and live at winterland has some great cuts too....red house!!!!
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yups i got that.
layton you wanna really hate yourself subalpine? this would be your chance!
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prolly like ray...i name them and title them with the instantanious thought at the very moment of posting.
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anyone got any info on this basaltic monolith? and anyone have any desire to climb the choss and munge?
consider it a healthy chance to hone your iron skillz!
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i personally wouldnt bring your youngster.....atleast to this function. might detract from some of your fun. on that note, leave the wife at home too!!
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i was the one tilted!!
it is the kerns(?) route out there....
my chest is still sore!!!!
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sorry for the late post......
just got em back.
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WELL THEN......
OVER AT THE SUTDENT WALL ON THE E SIDE OF THE GORGE HAS SEVERAL MODERATES THAT ARE BLOCKY AND ALLOW FOR MANY PRO CHOICES AS WELL.
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an excellent 1st trad lead at smith would be the 1st pitch of spiderman buttress or the short crack to the right of it.
both are like 5.5 or 5.6 but so good.
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my friend and i will go and you pay for everything airfare and stuff, and we wont charge you. you can lead the pitches you want. we will cook. cheaper then a guide!!
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2 keys
car
home
i hate have things in my pockets!
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oh damn!!! yup i was hopinh tim sent clean break!!!! argh!!!!
glad ya had fun!!!
erik
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tim you finally sent!!!!
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it is for the development of ice and mixed climbing most likely.
U THINK I CARE?
in Spray
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