David_Parker

I would really like to read the mission statement for the National Park Service. I would think it would contain words like courteous, helpful, accurate, information, enforcement of regulations, security, maintenance,etc. Perhaps we should, as a group write their mission statement for them! I had a good experience on the Olympic Coast. After paddling my kayak with my son to second beach near La Push and setting up camp, a ranger came walking down the beach and asked me where my permit was. I said "what permit" and he said didn't you see the sign and registration box at the trailhead. I pointed to my kayak and explained I didn't pass through the trailhead but had paddled from La Push. He informed me I was officially in the National Park. He was really nice and handed me an envelope and asked me to self register. I told him I had no money with me so he said to just fill out the registration and mail in the payment later. I filled out a totally false name and address and said I would. We then had an interesting conversation about his job, the fact he carried a weapon now, and my life as a Dad. He was truly impressed I had kayaked there with my 6 year old. Overall, his attitude was not abrasive, egotistical, or power driven. He did not act like a cop in any way. I think he just enjoyed being in the great outdoors like you and me and was greatful to have a job that allowed such. How refreshing! Hey AYCE, as hard as it may be, just be the bigger person and be extra nice and appologetic back. If she asks for your name, phone etc, just give her bogus info. Everyone should have an alias firmly implanted in your brain for such occasions. Then it comes out naturally without anyone suspecting its bogus. For names you shouldn't use, ask Dr. Jay or Erik !!!

My friend in Canada photographs most of these eco challange races. If you want to see photos go to: http://www.intoadventure.com [ 01-31-2002: Message edited by: David Parker ]

Most folks buying skins today have to trim them because they have shaped skis. So Buy your skins for your downhill gear and trim them down if you change skis. If the next pair will be wider, just buy as wide as you can for the first pair. They should still work for the second if they are a little wider. To trim, put them on the skis and use a razor blade or one of those razor letter openers. You definitely don't want them wider than your skis! [ 01-31-2002: Message edited by: David Parker ]

I would caution anyone who climbs up one side of a mountain and skis down something on a completely different aspect. By climbing up what you intend to ski, you get to assess the conditions. Jumping blind into one of the N. face chutes on Buckner is not very smart in my humble opinion! IF I were to do it, and it is intriguing since I have climbed it, I would do it as such. Get a snowmobile and get as far up Cascade River road as possible. Approach up into Boston Basin and set up a base somewhere up there. Cross over (near Boston Peak) onto Boston Glacier and traverse to North face routes. Climb the route and ski it if possible. Back same way. Problem with this is if you climb it and don't ski or even descend it, you are now a huge long way from camp! Any way you slice it, it's a pretty big objective!

Hmmm, you don't happen to have a helicopter do you? Snowmobile? How far up the Cascade river road were you expecting to get? How many days were you thinking?

I did the route in May of 1991. Believe it or not we carried skis and once on the ridge above price lake used them to approach all the way around to the base of Nooksak Tower where we stashed our skis. There was more snow than the photo on page 120 in 50 Classic climbs. In fact my partner never put his crampons on. I didn't approve of this because if he fell in a crevasse, he would have had serious problems. We took a variation and climbed the "Puruvian flukes" on the high wall left of the final pitches of the normal route. We had no problems crossing the schrund. From there across Crystal Glacier and up to the summit was a slog fest in deep, wet snow. It was a hot day and we actually descended the normal route too. I was very nervous but never witnessed any major slides or calves. In retrospect, I think we were extremely lucky. If I knew what I know now, I'd say we were pushing our luck. The ski down was fun though! PS: Once again, notice the month of the first ascent....September. That made it a real ice climb!! My point being that ice cliff, price, and others make great alpine ice routes in the fall! [ 01-28-2002: Message edited by: David Parker ]

There is great backcountry skiing from the top of Hurricane ridge. I like doing laps off Hurricane Hill. There's a bowl and a ridge facing east. The only other mountain I've skiied is Mt. Eleanor including some runs off the back side down a steep gully. There would be awsome skiing in avalanche canyon above lake constance if you want to hump skis up the knarliest trail in the Olympics. At least it's short...3400 vertical in 2 miles to the lake! It's hard to find easy access to above timberline in winter and the woods just aren't that great to ski in. If you want to check out Hurricane ridge though, give me a buzz! It will be awesome right now!

Maybe they should charge people to go into the mountains so only the rich people will go there!

I've climbed just about everything there at least once. They are awsome routes. I have photos somewhere. There was a great freeze around Christmas in 1990 and they also formed the next year too. They usually only last a few days and need a good long cold week to form. I always keep my eyes peeled, but it's been quite a few years. Getting across the river is one of the cruxes! We duct taped our gaitors and ran across a shollow section using ski poles for balance.

Basically I concur with the strap thing. I looked for Scottish style straps to replace the long thong system but haven't found them. The SMC's are the only pair of crampons out of about 5 pair I own that fit my Tele Boots so I still use them occaisionaly. They kinda suck for bundling up to put on your pack too.

I'll still carry a snarg or two on a longer ice routes. My third tool is a Forrest Alpine hammer. I brought my old Reichle leathers (I call them my Becky boots!) out of retirement for my 5 day Challenger traverse last summer. I also have some SMC cam locks on my aid rack. Some of my hexes are pretty old too.

On our Mt Challanger traverse last summer we were bushwacking off the Challanger Arm down a steep slope towards the Big Beaver trail. We stopped to get oriented under a small cliff and we noticed this contraption 1/2 buried in the ground. We excavated it and it stymied us for a brief moment. Something to do with mining came to us first, but closer examination revealed it was an ancient bear trap. It was all wrapped up in old leather straps and it looked as if it was torn off some trappers pack and fell there. It looked like it had been there 80 years! Unfortunately the thing weighed about 7 pounds and I wasn't inclined to carry it for a day and 1/2. Now I wish I had, because it was pretty cool and came with a good story. But I also like that someone might stumble across it again in the next 100 years. Long live the outdoor museum! It was a seriously rugged and remote place and it was fun to think about some trapper wondering around out there in the early 1900's trying to get a bear!

I guess all I was saying is that if Billy got your goat (no pun intended)then maybe you took it a little too personally. I know Billy better than anyone else on this site and you might have the wrong impression and it might change if you really knew him. I think that goes for a lot of people on this site. Hell, I thought Cpt Caveman was the biggest asshole until I met him. Now I KNOW he's the biggest asshole.....just kidding! Most people don't figure out I'm an asshole UNTIL they meet me. Ahhshit, I give up...who really gives a fuck!

Hey Will, either you are a belligerent drunk and have had too much scotch or you ran out of weed. Take it easy, bro. Billy would actually qualify as a partner for your expedition, 'cept he's married and has a kid now and doesn't have two months. I think his comment was rhetorical, not pointed at you. Take another bong hit and chill out!

Scott, you could be more right than me as I am no weather expert. True, a lot of weather comes in "around" the Olympics and thus the phenomenon of the convergence zone. If you sail, you'll notice the wind in Puget Sound is coming from all sorts of different directions on the same day depending where you are. I do believe that clouds do pick up more moisture from large bodies of water. Buffalo and the Wastch range both experience "lake effect" storms where the clouds recirculate picking up moisture off the water (great lakes, great salt lake) and redumps it in the area where the land mass pulls it back out. I find it surprising Norman sees the Cascades more than the Olympics from North Seattle. Perhaps the "convergence" weather is what blocks your view rather than clouds on the east side of the Olympics and being I'm further west on Bainbridge I'm not in the convergence weather so much. I tend to put Pt. Townsend at the extreme NE part of the penninsula. Basically that whole area is drier than anywhere else on the Penninsula. The Dungeness sand spit (all the drift logs) caught on fire a few years ago!

There is a reason Tom! The weather comes from the west. Clouds are laden with moisture and slam into the first protrusion on the mainland and back up until light enough to pass over. The Olympics jut up 7,000 ft. The heavy clouds back up and have to dump their moisture before they can continue on. Once light enough, they continue over and begin to pick up moisure from the Hood Canal and Puget Sound. Now laden with moisture again, they slam into the Cascades and back up until they dump enough to lighten up and pass over. The Olympics are not a long range (north/south) and weather passing to the north travels in the straights of Juan de Fuca and slam into Mt. Baker. Weather passing to the south passes over Olympia and slams into Mt. Rainier. Mt. Baker, the west side of the Olympics and Mt. Rainier recieve over 400 inches of snow/rain a year. Darrington and Forks have the same shitty weather. Living on Bainbridge, I can say I see the Olympics way more than I see the Cascades! The east side of each range is much drier than the west. So looking west at the east side of the Olympics will give you a view much more often than looking east to the west side of the Cascade range. Sequim is not on the east side, but the north. The weather (moisture laden clouds) doesn't usually back up that far from the Cascades and just basically passes over.

Nice post forrest, thanks! Chuck Yeager should/could have been an ice climber!

As an avid sea kayaker as well, I used to be a little calous in my approach to paddling in calm, non threatening conditions. Then I read "Deep Trouble" and my attitude changed. I never paddle with my life jacket on the back of my boat regardless of how hot or nice it is. Water in Puget Sound is cold even in summer. I was involved in my first bonefide capsize rescue 2 weeks ago and it was an eye opening experience. Things seemed to happen a lot slower than I expected even thougfh I had done plenty of practice. Reading about others misfortunes can be a big help in assessing what you should or should not do or how things can suddenly turn bad to even conciencious, experienced climbers. I tend to run it out on "easy" ground because I'm confident. I think I will change that now. With the new express screws, there is no reason not to put in a screw even on easy ground. A falling chunk of ice can easily knock me off easy ground as well as steep ground. Shit happens. Ice climbing is dangerous, but the danger can be mitigated somewhat if you are smart and pay attention to others' accidents. Thanks for the post JayB. This and the recent death in Vail has my attention! [ 01-10-2002: Message edited by: David Parker ]

With the up coming icefest approaching fast, anyone have an up date for Lillowet? It sure seemed warm recently!

you gotta stock up in advance. Actually you are just thinking of BC, Beck. Beer stores in Alberta are much more civilised. Better selection and pricing too. Alberta has better Ice Climbing too![ [ 01-08-2002: Message edited by: David Parker ]

If this guy is a good climber and was passionate about the sport, I find it hard to believe he'll be giving it up. He won't be happy and that will erode his relationship and cause resentment towards his wife if he is quitting it for her. Give him time to figure this out. In the mean time, keep telling him about the great climbs you do and tell him you miss climbing with him. The funny thing about marriage (be prepared, I'm going to generalize here, so don't take offense if it's not you) the wife changes and the husband wants her to be the person he married and the husband doesn't change and the wife keeps trying to get him to change! A climber married to a non-climbing wife can survive better if the wife has something she is passionate about. Maybe it is a different sport or a hobby. What is difficult is when the wife doesn't have anything she is passionate about. Then she can't relate to her spouses' passion and why he is "obsessed" with climbing all the time. In marriage you will find your climbing will parallel your sex life. Quantity will deminish and you will seek higher quality to compensate! The less you climb the more you will concentrate on quality climbs/routes only and picking good weather windows to do them. My solution has been climbing trips and giving up the weekend warrior stuff. I don't get too bummed that the ice is not in right now because I know I have a ten day trip to Canada coming up! Marriage is way harder than climbing! [ 01-07-2002: Message edited by: David Parker ]

Verglass is definitely intimidating. But using your ice axe in rock crevasses or hooking features(drytooling) should have seen you through. I assume you had crampons. If the other party had a rope, you could have belayed everyone down, saving the most confident climber to go last. I found getting off the summit block harder than that section. I actually had a 25 ft rope and rigged it to self belay myself to get off the summit. So did you turn around at that point? I'd be curious to know what descending the north chute was like! Now that sounds dicey if it was hard neve.

So did you descend the North Chute? That sounds even more sketchy! My experience is that you don't traverse across a ledge but descend about 30-40 feet down into the chute leading to the notch and climb the last little bit of that. If you had a rope you could have rigged up a rap I suppose.

Ice in Utah is definitely good right now! Most regular climbs in LC and Provo canyon are in although it was hard to tell what shape the top pitch of the fang was in. Many new mixed lines being created (with bolts). Didn't make it to Santaquin, but heard the normal climbs there were mostly in. PS: That article in Climbing rag about SLC ice was lousy!