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DPS

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Posts posted by DPS

  1. Aspirin and garlic tablets have worked very well for me. I saw a program on the history channel about the Chosin battle in the Korean war. The battle was in the winter and many of the soldiers suffered severe cold weather injuries. One vet who was interviewed said he has never been able to sleep under blankets since, he gets too hot.

  2. I did Japenese Couloir on Barille last year in early May. I don't remember any variations. You climb up an obvious gulley to a small col, traverse below a rock band, and then up another gulley to the summit snow slopes. It took less than five ours from our camp on the glacier to the summit. We reversed the ascent route using rappels and down climbing. We roped up and belayed two pitches.

  3. I own an Integral Designs MK1 Lite and have used a Bibler I tent. They seem to be very comparable in size, weight, setup and quality. One nice thing about the ID tents is that they can be custom ordered to have different features.

  4. Some land-use agencies may require insurance before they issue permits to guide on their land. Other than that I don't believe there are any other agencies that legally require one to have insurance. I am sure Scot'teryx would know all the ins and outs as he recently started a guide company.

  5. When I picked up the Grivel Evolution in a store I immediately thought it would be perfect for Liberty Ridge, Coleman Headwall, NR Baker and the like. My personal preferance would be to bring a more substantial second tool than the Grivel 3rd tool.

     

    I did Lib Ridge on July 15th, (the last day of free climbing on Rainier) and there was one pitch of hard ice climbing out of Thumb Rock and hard ice on a traverse below the Black Pyramid and about 500 feet of hard ice below Liberty Cap. I think the Evo would have done quite well for those conditions. In the spring I would guess there will be less hard ice and more snow.

  6. Since this guy is so smart, he should get himself a job working at the social studies factory. That's what his degree is in, isn't it? Just from looking at his photo I would assume he came off as an arrogant jackass. Who wants to hire an arrogant jackass. Anyone who states membership into Mensa as being a qualification clearly has not done anything worthwhile to speak of.

  7. Funny. One of the hardest climbers I ever met is a guy named Dave Moroles. His clothes are held together by copious amounts of duct tape, and I don't think he owns anything brand name.

  8. My wife and I went XC skiing for the first time last week. We skiied up the Denny Creek road to Snoqualmie Pass and back. Can someone suggest another tour of similar difficulty (lack of steepness) near Snoqualmie Pass, preferably one that does not require a sno-park pass? Thanks.

  9. W from this board has climbed it, he may have some insight. Also it is covered in 50 Classic Climbs In North America. Check this Web site out:http://www.naclassics.com/climbs/huntingt/beta.htm

  10. A local climber and trail runner was relating the story of how he was stalked and confronted by a cougar while running on Tiger Mt. From then on I was worried I would be attacked by a tiger while running on Cougar Mt.

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