DPS
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Posts posted by DPS
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I worked with a fellow who has put up a looooooot of sport routes and accompanied him a couple of times. He worked incredibly hard to get it right. I remember our boss giving him a roofing hatchet once. He looked at it and remarked what an excellent cleaning tool it would make. Yup, he was out cleaning routes with it, wearing it down to a nub. Never seen anyone work so hard for no money.
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MVS who has done an impressive amount of climbing this summer and taken some amazing photographs and shared them on this Web site. He has shared his adventures through thoughtful, well written trip reports that are marked by a gentle, self depricating humor. Not once has he posted anything negative about another person.
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The 'Desert Potholes' or 'Channeled Scablands' were formed when a large ice dam broke on an inland sea 10,000 years ago. The water scoured out basaltic rock laid down in pyroclastic events. The water table was significantly raised in the 1930s by damming the Columbia, creating the pothole lakes. The water table, oh wait, what was the question again?
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I know where I will be early season, Cascade Pass!!!!
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I did not climb ONCE all summer, or even do a trail run. Instead I renovated my 1906 Victorian home and put it on the market last week. It sold in thee days. Thanks to High Climb and CatBirdSeat for their help!
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Winter traverse of the Stuart Range:
Hike up Moutaineers Creek and climb NW Face Couloir on Mt Stuart --
traverse to Sherpa and climb West Ridge, descend East Ridge --
climb NW Ridge (or something like that, not sure) of Argonaut
descend East side --
climb NE Coloir on Colchuck descend Colchuck Glacier --
climb Triple Couloirs/Direct North Face or something on the NE face and descend Asgard Pass and hike out to the car.
A whole winter's worth of objectives in one trip!
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I made no comments regarding Scooby's sexuality.
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Scooby thinks your site is gay too.
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North West Outdoor Guide, still gay after all these years.
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I have an SMC Himalayan 50 cm hammer that I carry as a second tool for routes like Liberty Ridge and North Ridge of Baker. I also carry it for the senario you describe, approach and descent for an alpine rock route. I works very well for both of these purposes, but is pretty heavy.
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Yup. The authors worked very hard to make the guide as comprehensive as possible. One thing I like about the guide (aside from my submissions being taken seriously) is each geographical section includes a heading called 'Rumors of Ice' for climbs that don't have much more than a report from someone.
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I remember climbing with Brendan when both of us could barely rattle and shake our way up 5.7s. Now Brendan is a big name climber with trips to Makalu, first ascents in Alaska and I can still barely rattle my way up a 5.7.
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I was in the neighborhood so I stopped by Alex's house the other night. He let me have a look at the new ice climbing guide. Alex and Jason have done a very nice job at writing a comprehensive guide. There are a lot of great photos from many of the cc.com regulars. Great job guys!
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Climbing with Colin should be considered aid.
From now on people should qualify their climbs accordingly. i.e:
"Yeah man, I sent that route Colin-less"
"Really? Do you think it was the first Colin-less ascent?"
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Stimmy did not start climbing until relatively recently.
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MVS:
Wow first MVS takes the Sierras by storm, now the Rockies. I declare this to be the summer of MVS! Make sure to take lots of good slides, I expect you to have some nice ones for my third semi-annual slide show and BBQ at the end of the summer.
Oh yeah, you may want to ask Alex, hes been to the Rockies a few times.
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I spoke with a scientist who was just emerging from the tunnel once. He explained his research to me (in what I am sure he thought was simple enough terms). He did say they were abondoning it due to high levels of radon.
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How about this one:
What was the first name proposed for the Triad?
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There is this mountain out here called 'Rainier' that seems to be pretty popular. I think some folks even try to climb it.
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I rapped off my partner in Alaska once, but I think some very skinny bushes I have rapped from in the past were probably worse.
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My sister in law's dad bought her a Walther PP for her wedding gift. Its light and concelable, but is particularly prone to jamming.
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I have climbed it twice, both times in late June in different years. Once we found harder, alpine ice and needed two tools, the other time found softer stuff and got by with one tool.
I imagine you'll be ok as long as your boots are moderately stiff ie La Sportiva Makalu or similar. I would recommend against using soft hiking boots. A second tool would not be a bad idea.
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'As far as I can tell you're both full of shit and I haven't learned a thing from either of you.'
That shut me up.
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Ummm, I never said I work for a filter company, not sure where you pulled that out of. Maybe you should read more carefully.
The reason you have not heard of these journals is because you are not a scientist working in the field, just a lab tech. (I am sure you are a swell lab tech, and can ID bugs in people's shit real well.) I have many friends who have never heard of Science, Nature, Lancet, or NEJM. Does that make these journals obsure, or are you the person who decides what is obscure?
I would imagine you are correct in assuming that most backcountry users do not use peer reviewed science journals to educate themselves on the relative risks of drinking out of streams. The average joe on the street does not read NEJM or The Lancet in making health care descisions either. Most people make their descisions based on the popular press which is the reason I am railing against Rockwell's piece. He presents an opinion piece (can't even be considered a balanced literature review) in the guise of a research paper. People read this and incorrectly believe they can't catch Giardia from drinking out of streams in the backcountry.
You are full of assumptions, aren't you? What makes you so sure I was not trained on doing human paristology work? I actually learned to do this first, as an easy stepping stone to learning the techniques and applying them to environmental samples.
I have been approached by the publisher of the piece to submit a critique of his work. I will post it here as well.
Fathers and Sons as Climbing Partners
in Climber's Board
Posted
My daughter and I started climbing together when she was 5. By age 10 she was completely at ease on longer multi-pitch trad routes and could lead on pre-placed gear. She developed a fluid crack technique that combined with her flexibility and small hands allowed her to easily climb thin cracks and pin scars I had no hopes of getting up. Photographers loved to shoot her and she reveled in the attention. By 13 she was sick of the whole thing and a blow up at Index ended our climbing trips.