mvs

that is awesome! Way to go! --Michael

Hi, I was summoned. Here I am.

quote: Originally posted by klar404: ...did some nice tower climbing between Merchant and "Black" 'bout ten years back... Yes, the right skyline of 5760 (as viewed from the south-facing basin to approach Gunn) looked like pretty steep and interesting climbing. No brush, eh? Hard to find in that area. That is worth making a trip for! Thanks, --Michael

I have pictures and a long boring narrative at http://www.mountainwerks.org/cma/2002/gunn.htm but the pictures are nice, thanks! --Michael

Kris and I will be there with bells on! This is the thin edge of the wedge. Corporations and government sympathizers want to productize each of the recreational uses of forest land. --Michael

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: Bringing it back round to some cool stuff. Good work Dan and Mike! Sounds like a fun outing. Sorry there is so much negativity surrounding this but what can I say? I don't think Mike or I meant anything other than fun. I know both you <snip> [/QB] Right on, We definitely know you and Mike were joking. And Erik's post about "photo proof" was awesome. I think Marek misunderstood? Marek is a good guy and a friend, but I don't know why he felt compelled to defend our "accomplishment". Must be oxygen deprevation from his recent climb of Illimani? (probably have that wrong, but it was some big mountain "down south"). PHOTO PROOF! --> DA TOOF Later on! --Michael

Oh yeah..."Quickie", shoulda known! I'm amazed we didn't get a trailhead ticket. My car was naked in the Baring parking lot on a sunny Sunday for 11.5 hours! (That's how long the climb took us, cuz we're slow and bad). Would have shaved time by gaining the ridge in a non-technical way. I don't think we could shave any time from the brush wading. We were pretty efficient in there, methinks. Maybe the rangers are "lying low" due to the day of protest? Tryin' to take the wind out of our sails? --Michael

Last Sunday: This is a craggy peak left of Mt. Baring if you are gazing east from the Index town walls. Spring/early summer is the best time to climb it because brush is covered in snow. Well, some of it, anyway. We parked at the Mt. Baring trailhead, walked back down the road to a spur, crossed the creek on some logs, and followed a compass Baring [har har] north through thick brush. Stay on this bearing, and you'll intersect a good climbers trail that climbs 1000 feet up a clearcut into old growth forest. A rock buttress bars the way at 4,000 ft. Follow a traversing route to the right and then up to lower angle snowfields. Climb to the low point in the ridge straight ahead. Only now can you see Gunn Peak on the left. Traverse on easy snowfields (or tarns and meadows later) to a broad gully and climb 3rd class rock to a shoulder. From here, we took a more direct route (4th-5th class) to the summit ridge, but a class 2 way exists to the right. The summit ridge was spectacular, with steep snow, towers and cornices. Curse our names in the register for being first of 2002! Look down on Index and the puny walls. Admire Heinze Graupe, who climbs this peak 4 times a year. Contemplate the brushy descent. Be glad that you climbed this intriguing mountain. Shush louse! --Michael

Oh yeah, I've moved on...this is sooo...yesterday. But seriously, it sounds like the Wickwire route Robert mentioned could still be done. Thanks for all the info! --Michael

Right, I just saw the other thread about it. Hold still until December when I ask again

I was thinking about heading up there in the next day or two. Temps too warm? Sloppy but climbable? I'll start in deep darkness if that'll help. Tanks! --Michael

quote: Originally posted by mikeadam: CB, <snip> I tried that thing (Garfield) twice in the winter and I won't be back until summer that's for sure. Mike, did you ever look at the West Peak? There is a slabby route that should be relatively brush free, about 6 pitches of rock to 5.5 or so. First done in '65 I think. (in February no less!)

I'll develop the pictures soon. Hopefully I have something of these mysterious towers... --Michael

Didn't mean to start so much controversy, jeezie! Anyhoo, has anyone climbed the south sides of the small towers south of the TOOF? I guess they would be about 1 pitch, mid-5th class at the hardest. But they looked pretty blank for pro. If I go check it out I'll write back. Later! --Michael

You know, charcoal renderings are always deceptive. The charcoal drawing of the range from Denny Peak to Bryant in the Cascade Alpine Guide makes a pretty jagged ridge look like a sleepytime hike. These charcoalists see a "stock price" ridge and smirk as they draw a line. They see a jumble of wet/downslab/brush/snow/rock and just color that black. Down with the charcoalists! Limited by the poor detailing abilities of their medium, they have made tens of dollars with their perverse, knowing deception! Thanks, --Michael ps - the Charcoalist can be recognized by his small hands and WEE BEADY EYES!!

Thanks for saving me Off White! I was just looking at that route in the book, and thinking to go up there. When/If (big If now!) I do, I'll take your advice to heart. --Michael

Dan Smith and I met by chance on the Tooth yesterday, and decided to go back down via Denny Peak. From the 5220+ ft saddle south of the Tooth, we traversed below Peak 5456 and gained the ridge at the saddle just south. Here we found some fun exposed 4th class climbing on the ridge, with a few harder bouldering moves. The rock was quite good, and it was fun alternating between the rock climbing and short steep snow steps. We stayed on the crest, climbing over Peak 5519, and on to the summit of Denny Mountain (5540 ft?). The glissade down from there was awesome. (We skipped those 3-4 towers near the Tooth, wanting rock shoes and a real rope for that. The south sides of those looked great!) So, I just wanted to mention that this was really fun, and not to be overlooked for a chance to stay high in the mountains for a few more hours! Thanks, --Michael

You call mom to tell her you made the "first ascent" of the Redmond REI Pinnacle.

quote: Originally posted by David Parker: Do you think if the Ranger hadn't put you and the car together, he would have issued the ticket? From what I understand, they have to have you admit the car is yours or see you get in it. The ticket goes to the person, not the car. At least that is precedent in Arizona. No, he wouldn't have given me the ticket if he didn't see me get into the car. He was waiting for me to return. He was sitting in his vehicle nearby, watching the parking lot. I briefly thought about hiding in the woods until he left, but I was tired and wanted to go home. He might have stayed for hours! --Michael

Right on Payaso. The only sad thing about this mountain is that you can't see it close up. On the approach, there is always something in the way. On the climb itself, there is a buttress continually in the way. When I drove home, I was constantly looking for a vantage point of the peak. I know it's a prominent landmark from Seattle, but I don't know which one, other than that the mountain is somewhere on the left of the range.

quote: Originally posted by mvs: ...I was beginning to think nobody read my little report![/QB] No way man, I'm here. So is Jon the Mountain Dude. We got yer back. Truth!

quote: Originally posted by mvs: Hey Michael, way to go! Did you take snowshoes? --Michael Thanks! I left them in the car, which was good. I was beginning to think nobody read my little report!

Hey Michael, way to go! Did you take snowshoes? --Michael

Thanks to Pack on My Back and others for beta on this climb! I did this as a long day trip, leaving the car at 4:15 am, and getting back at 3:45 pm. Rain on and off all day. A little snow up high, but the cloud ceiling was above the peak, so I had good local views. The view into the heart of the Olympics was incredible, despite truncation of the higher peaks due to the grey ceiling. I wore crampons on the upper mountain, and didn't glissade until below the Hourglass due to cold, icy conditions. Great glissade though! Great nap at Lena Lake on the way out. The Forest Sevice Policeman was waiting at my car for me to return. He asked where I misplaced my hiking pass. When I said I was protesting the pass, he rolled his eyes, and went to write me a ticket. Hopefully that means he's seen a lot of people like me and is getting tired of writing tickets? It is a $30 fine, I can pay it or go to court. Aside from my new status as "lawbreaker", it was a great day in the mountains. Thanks again, --Michael