korengalois

eksather you have recs for TR ice routes in Leavenworth?

Thanks. Regarding Snoqualmie I'm looking at S Gulley on Guye and McClellan N Couloir, and Chair obviously. You familiar with these or have any other recs?

Thanks everyone for the super useful responses. I'm actually in WA and am primarily focused on climbing here. I've just been interested in Hood routes because they seem like a good option Jan-April when most of the WA routes are still pretty hard to reach. All the objectives I really care about long term are in WA (Liberty Ridge, Baker N Ridge, Triple Couloirs etc). I tend to make a lot of spreadsheets and entered the Hood routes here:

I've done around 20 grade II & III alpine climbs in the PNW (including Hood old chute twice) and want to build my steep snow / easy ice skills this winter and spring. A friend lent me his Hood climber's guidebook recently and it seems like there's a wide variety of routes that naturally lend themselves to a progression. I'm wondering how sensible this progression seems to you all and if the grades seem accurate (esp since the guidebook is around 10 years old now and things change). I will list the guidebook grades follow by the MP grades in this format (Guidebook rating / MP rating) 1) S Side Old Chute (grade II / AI1 easy snow) 2) S Side Pearly Gates (same as above) 3) Steel Cliff S Face (Grade II+ / AI2 steep snow) 4) Leuthold Couloir (Grade II / moderate snow) 5) Devil's Kitchen Headwall (Grade II, WI3 / AI2-3 Steep Snow) 6) North Face Right Gully (Grade III WI3 / WI3 Mod Snow) ... 7) Yocum Ridge (Grade IV AI3, AI3 Steep Snow) Note: I know this progression has to be complemented by other WI climbing especially before doing any WI3 leading. I'm also curious how some of these routes compare to similar mixed routes in WA like Colchuck NEB Couloir, Triple Couloirs, Kautz, Baker N Ridge, etc.

Thanks for the intel. If I interpreted your post correctly most of the headaches/hazards are closer to Degenhardt/Barrier rather than between the camp and West Mac? Also what was your itinerary on this most recent trip? Thanks again!

Hello all, I'm planning a trip at the end of the month into the Southern Pickets. Planning to spend two nights in Terror Basin and take a day trip up West McMillan Spire. May also try to go up the Pyramid but that's less likely. I'm interested in info/beta related to the following: Approach to Terror Basin Snow finger descending into the Terror Basin Camp State of Terror Glacier West Mac Spire itself Any other misc info (first trip into the Pickets) Lastly its possible we could extend the trip by a day. If you could extend this itinerary from 3 to 4 days what would you consider adding? E.g. summiting the pyramid, spending a night in Crescent Creek or Chopping Block camps, etc Thanks