underscore_child

Glad to hear he'll be back to sport climbing eventually, his potential there always intrigued me more. Maybe he'll try to repeat Flex Luthor?

Idk about a Friday. A couple Tuesdays ago I was there, we arrived at 6:55 and waited an hour and 15 minutes to talk to the ranger and get the permit. I think two or three groups had gotten tickets the night previous and several more had gotten there 10 minutes before us. Maybe you can extrapolate from that, hope it helps...

Dayum, your first Cascade trip outside of the Pickets? Thats fuckin hard core. Can't imagine the motivation needed to attempt a new route (on Mox, no less) after a week in the wilderness.

So rad. Inspiring TR doodz

Funny you mention it, I've been wanting to get on that baby for a while now.

Ahhh. Remembered I was gonna bring Mr. Herrington's weird ass Trango cam and place it and take a pic so he could see what all my shenanigans scaring his neighbors at 11pm finding his house to pick it up came to fruition, but I forgot. Such is life.

OK so hard to tell exactly what you bolted, but based on here and what you posted on MP... one fixed pin replaced with bolt... one replaced bolt at anchor... one to mitigate factor 2? Doesn't sound so terrible to me. I find it funny that 'this route's been on your todo list but you were too intimidated' and then you go on to rope solo the whole thing in its original state. Maybe ya weren't so intimidated after all. Big props for honesty too.

Fair enough lol.

Couldn't get permission... like you couldn't contact the FA party or you did and they said no? (far be it from me to criticize someone making the effort to hand drill to make something safer, I'm just wondering)

Holy shit that sunset pic.

Kk pics. Skin track on the way up Chair Bryant Slopes Pineapple Basin The notch Zach on the final pitch Chair from the summit More views Scramble to first rap The route Second rap into the gully

And by later I mean tomorrow not this unholistic hour.

Trip: das toof - South Face & Tooth Fairh Trip Date: 06/21/2021 Trip Report: Finally got the trade route done with a bonus linkup of the rape bolted monstrosity the Tooth Fairy. woot. Zach and I sacked up at 8:30 on some skin track that leads the short way to Source Lake. Being a regular SAR + ski patrol member has given him encyclopedic knowledge of the myriad paths scattered around Alpental. I (snowshoes) and Zach (microspikes) followed two skiers, Eric and Allen (I think...) most of the way to Source Lake. Nice dudes. They were headed for the Tooth Fairy as well. (You know that weird overachieving stoke that comes in the car ride at about Exit 45? We mutually agreed to try for the twofer S. Face and the Fairy so we wouldn't have to slog all the way up there again for a while, until we would get REALLY psyched and storm the East Face sideshow attraction.) The big ramp above Source Lake was a slog but the moats were interesting to look at, if terrifying. I have yet to become comfortable on snow, at all. This was a big step tho. Eventually we reached Pineapple Basin. No sign of the skiers but we had two ladies ahead and a two dudes + dad behind. We passed the ladies and the trio passed us. Shoutout to them storming up that gully in approach shoes. Fortunately they, too, were off to the Tooth Fairy. We got to Pineapple Pass first and racked for glory. I led P1 and the P3 scramble, leaving, coincidentally, the crux 4th for Zach. We chose that juggy layback in the middle; I'm a little tempted to come back for the Catwalk but when I head up there again it'll likely be for Chair... Summit was exquisite and certainly the nicest of the four ( :3 ) Snoqualmie summits I've been on. On the raps down we passed the ladies on P3 and the skiers on P2, as evidently a party of three in front (on toof fairy) was too much for them to endure. The spoils of whatever war they were fighting finding a better skin track. The moats around the SW face are unpleasant. I shall say no more about that. Tooth Fairy was a fun second half albeit a bit hot. Mostly 5.7-8ish except the very fun P2 and the awkward P5. P5 reminded me of the Plank (a highly overrated and rather contrived route at Exit 38) in the way that to avoid making their multipitch .11+, there's a bleh slabby traverse at the base of an overhang. Goes to show how difficult it is finding sport multipitch on andesite, so props to Nelson and Whitelaw. Quite dehydrated at the end of P5, we discussed the necessity of expediting things. I gave up looking for bolts on P6 after mistakenly skipping the first one and romped left in a rage. Fortunately the gully I found led straight to the summit on dirt and heather plus had an overcammed placement for the one piece of pro on my harness (secondhand .75 X4). We rapped the South Face again with dry lips. Contouring back on steep snow in climbing shoes was problematic. Getting over the moat was worse. Zach tried to jump and [REDACTED]. I found an OK spot and carved out steps with my axe. Rapping down those beautiful bolted anchors in the gully was exquisite. Terrified initially by the glissade I was disappointed by the lack of slope and speed in the rest of Pineapple Basin. Then there was no more glissading due to moats/pits/boulders, but lots of self-arrests to avoid those unpleasant little scummers. Eventually we made it out. Nice day out altho now I can't sit down because of glissade abrasions and my back hurts from carrying the rope whilst lurching about on slippery snow. Ya reap what ya sow I suppose. Will post pics in a moment. Gear Notes: Buncha draws for tooth fairy. A few cams for South Face. Dry rope was nice for gully raps. Helmet... ICE AXE! Approach Notes: Patchy ski track to Source Lake - long snow slope to Pineapple Basin - couloir to Pineapple Pass

this is actually awesome. psyched to go try them once I get my hands on sum hooks.

Great pics. Jack is such a monster.

heh.

Hey thx guys. more to come soon, as soon as the weather gets better, and I find my ice axe. I'm just uploading pics to a private album on MP and linking the URL now

CringeTastic

P1 Side of the rib Gully Blood Sport, 5.11b Dirt climbing Me below the summit Zach en route From the summit Middle summit Behind the trees is the Alpental valley Snoqualmie Osprey Wall Bomber Waterfall

Do other people have this problem where no images will load?

Not the route From the base (haha slide alder w/no leaves!)

Trip: Guye Peak - South Rib Trip Date: 05/25/2021 Trip Report: Yeah we climbed it in the rain. Why? Who knows. Something something 'save the real routes for sunshine' lol. I won't be doing that again. Guye has been on my summit list for a while, but I was thinking it would be a hike/scramble to bag it, until the right partner came along. Zach wants to hit the Improbable Traverse; I am skeptical of hoe much fun that would be. Instead (since it's raining) we decided on the south rib, listed as a 'practice climb' in big brown beckey. That means it can't be too good, as we discovered. Weather forecast slowly got worse as we drove out. It was rather foggy arriving at the Sahale ski club, where I obtrusively stuck my beat to hell truck on the road. Immediately I wished for microspikes on the snow. The schwack was nothin' doin', a few feet of slide alder and a talus field. We found that random sport route on the side of Guye too. Hardware looked incredible. We pitched out the first 4th class bit cause the rock was soaked. I led too far up onto a big slab running out of rope with no pro. Note to self, return those approach shoes, they can't smear on wet slabs! I found one miniature .75 placement and told Zach not to fall. This is not as dramatic as it sounds. Zach led a simul block up around bulges on the slab and into a gully. Patiently awaiting his maneuvers below I almost got domed by a toaster block or three. Guye's rock fractures just like the worst basalt at Vantage, it's fucken weird. We took stock of our routefinding at the top of the gully/corner/waterfall. From there we each made two longer simul blocks up through dirt, trees and a few 3rd class rock steps. Gotta say this was not the most interesting climbing. 250 feet of 3rd and 4th, a chossy death gully, and then a bunch of mossy trees. Oh well. Took a short break for Zach to have a phone interview (don't ask....) and eventually summitted. Still no views. The north side of each block had a good amount of snow. Foregoing the ice axe was a very poor choice. Thus rappelling into the SE couloir (fairly fresh tat/rings) and kicking mushy steps into a 80 degree snow finger with the whole couloir below us was...sporting. Descent was uneventful, besides long, slippery, and wet. Clouds cleared up at that point though. On approach Gear Notes: Light rack, helmets, should've had ice axe for summit/descent Approach Notes: Up the Sahale Ski club thing, snow covered but easy, then right around the base of Guye.

Leavenworth based, meaning Enchantments?

Well, the pictures are all on mountain project if I never figure this out.

smart alex