Dale Farnham

I had to laugh. Here's 2 guys, one of whom has climbed Curtis Ridge and the other Willis Wall, giving advice about objective danger on the Kautz.

I've climbed it 12 times, skied it 6.But it's been 15 years since I was last up there. I always camped at c.9'500. running water there. But I'm old so it always takes me 2 days. Don't camp at Hazard. You are only exposed to danger from the icefall for about 200 feet horizontally. Just go through that area quickly. It's no more dangerous than crossing a busy street. You can get a good view of the route from Longmire or that pullout a little before Paradise. That should inform your decision to descend it or carry over. Or do what Chris said.

I loved that picture too. I wish those ladies would weigh-in with the particulars....and who did their eyebrows.

Wow! Fantastic photos. Why have I never seen those before?

Jamie Christensen and I had just finished the Nisqually Icefall and were at 13,500 (on Rainier, Lincoln) taking a break, and looking right at it when it blew up. Jamie, who had carried an old Nikon (F2 I think) up so many climbs, had left it at home. Goddamn we would have had some great pictures. We continued up for another 500' looking over our shoulders at the increasingly frightening ash cloud before turning around and running (seriously) down Fuhrer Finger. We got to Paradise at noon. Pitch black, birds falling out of the sky. My car broke down (from ash) in Morton. Took us 3 more days to get to Seattle.

Wait..who put that goddamn smiley face thing on me? Stop!

Thanks Mr. G-spotter. That was a good read.

Would I be amiss here in suggesting this might be the start of a great Muir stories thread? I know for a fact that Matt Christensen's cousin lit it on fire once. Great story...but you'll have to ask him.

I think if one wants to make their mark on Rainier, the place to start would be a second ascent of the West ridge of Little Tahoma. Trying too hard to create a new route just creates a contrived variation. I agree that there are several potential unskied lines. I wish I wasn't so damn old...and drunk.

Denied? Why? Did they give a reason?

I've gone across there 40 or 50 times unroped, and roped once in september, when we used screws and 2 tools. But those other guys, above, are right.

Hey, I skied the Kautz, including the chute, 6 times between '85 and 2000. It was always a great ski, but I haven't been on it since. The chute is visible from Longmire and Paradise. If you take binoculars in the car you can see if there is snow or ice. You don't need much snow, only a 15-20 foot wide ribbon that's continuous. I look forward to your tr. Dale

Thanks guys. My almost niece (who lives in Portland) is on a mission to find him.

Does anyone know how I can get in touch with him?

Good job man, Tried it with Matt Christensen and Jim Merz in...'88 I think. Matt would know.