Ryan Hoover

What were the road conditions like?

Good attempt! Hope you heal up! I had a pretty good attempt up the middle a few years back. Ran out of time on a car to car attempt. Some very thin unprotecable climbing to be had!

Trip: Mt Index - Direct East Face to Index Traverse Date: 7/7/2017 Trip Report: Michal Rynkiewicz hit me up Friday with the hopes of going for the North Face of Mt Index into the Index Traverse Saturday. A route I have always looked up at, but brushed off over the years. I felt slightly anxious to get on a big loose alpine line since the last two years have been basically void of the mountains, but I'm a sucker for a challenge. The Route starts somewhere near the orange rock at the top of the snow field. Once I find a good high res shot of the East Face and some time, I will post a topo. I woke up way to early Saturday morning to try and scrape together my alpine kit before Mike showed up at my place around 5. We ended up leaving later then we hoped for and arrived at the Lake Serene trailhead around 7. I took some photos of the Becky Bible (somehow missing the descent page) and we took off. Somewhere from the car to Lake Serene we decided to go for the East Face, an old Becky route that has seen seldom ascents at best. We cruised up to the lake and were well on our way to start the route, where we saw a decent trickle we were hoping to fill up at. Unfortunately it was protected by a 40 ft moat. OK with me, Mike headed down to the lake and filled up 5 liters for the route. We crossed the little snow that was left and started scrambling on some orange choss. The original East Face is supposed to start with the North Face and follow ledges higher. We traversed left on the first Bench to see what could be had. The first simul-block was mine. After a couple dead end starts and sketchy down climbs, we our way to the left side of the ledge system just past a big white overhang looming above. I followed a tree'd up corner groove for a bit, to some steep exposed face climbing and finally to the base of a beautiful corner that finally yielded some gear worth inspiration. I climbed the corner and belayed on top. The next block was Mikes. The corner continued up, but was looking harder then reasonable for a gear-less simul in approach shoes. Mike peaked around the backside buttress of the corner and started climbing a steep tree. This lead to a tarzan swing into an overhung fist crack/tree climb that proved to be quite fun. He continued up until joining the canyon. A large obvious weakness that splits the East Face about halfway up. Typical Climbing on the East Face The rock at this point started to deteriorate to what would be the theme for the rest of the climb. Spot on descriptions from the Becky guide and 2 more simul-blocks brought us to the top of the East Face via continuous steep, loose, vegetated climbing. My knuckle was already starting to get sore from tapping holds. We threw some snow in our water bottles and snacked at a thank god patch of snow right at the top out and started the traverse. The traverse was exposed, loose and exciting. Every col looked impassible until you found the way. We were lucky to nail every turn (Becky Bible is too spot on) and made it to the Middle/Main Notch 11 hrs after leaving the car and were so excited to find the magical bivy mentioned in Wayne Wallace's report. The problem was, it was actually before the Main summit, and the Middle/Main notch was a steaming pile of poo. We traversed back to some low angled slabs near a sacred trickle and ate as much as we could. The faces you make after a day of choss doggin'. The next morning we made quick work getting up main peak and were on the summit in a couple hrs. In total, we did the route in 6 simul blocks to the Main/Middle Notch, and 2 more to the summit. We guessed our way down the hourglass gully and once again luckily stumbled upon the rappel station about half way down. We made it to the lake in quick time and passed the smells of civilization (I don't understand how someone can smell so strong of Laundry/Perfume after hiking), making it back to the car around 4:30. A trip to Rico's marked the end of another great trip! Although I wouldn't recommend this route to everyone, I do recommend it to the types of folks who like to get wild! A great cascades experience! Gear Notes: Single Rack to 2", a 8mm 70 meter rope and a brain bucket. We left the climbing shoes, crampons and ice axe at home. Approach Notes: Becky Bible

Tried to car to car this route a couple years back. We ran into the same situation on where you guys backed off. Continued up the pitch with some m5 moves on a good piece that led to a full 70 meter pitch of unprotectable 1-2" thick AI4+ to below the dagger. Ended up digging for quite awhile to even find something to resemble an anchor. My partner busted off the snice while seconding and took a little TR whipper. Ended up making some time killer mistakes and had to bail. Good potential, but expect tricky protection and anchors on this face as well as some very thin sections. I was hoping a later season would improve conditions on the pitch you guys opted out of. The dagger was twice the size when we were there and looks pretty devious when the sun hits it... By the looks of your photos, it's probably on the fatter side then usual, although the dagger looks to have broke.

I'm sure a outback could get up and down the big hill, but not much further into the north ghost. I have ssen outbacks make it into the south ghost. The waiporous seems a little trickier this year, but we managed to get in and out with a stock Tacoma, but the ruts on the last hill did require us to throw some 2x4's in to get out. Hydro is ultra fat this year. Looks like a fun trip, it's always a good day getting in and out of the ghost! How was the new track to VOB?

Looking for a pair of Silveretta 400's or similar to fit a size 44.5-45.5 boots. Let me know what ya got! Ryan

We were stoked not to choose microspikes for the descent!

Thanks for reporting, shit can get real fast! I don't know about you, but all it takes is reaching the car before all struggles of an epic disappear out of my head and I'm already planning for something else. I'm sure you'll be making your way up Stuart by the end of summer! Wrapping around the NBC to the summit is slightly confusing and the correct path is not obvious.

I'd lean more on the "thin" conditions side, but we still enjoyed ourselves! I'd like to do a repeat when it's in more winter condition. Look up the cover of Wickwire's Addicted to Danger as it shows a pic of the 1st Gendarme.

Trip: Mt Hood - Yocum Ridge Date: 3/7/2015 Trip Report: "Some times you just got to get drunk and walk up a hill", Michal Rynkiewicz says as we are leaving the Timberline Lodge Friday around 8 pm. We woke around 5 am the next morning at Illumination Saddle as groups were gearing up for the Leuthold. A quick glimpse of Yocum assured us that it was in lean condition. We crossed the Reid Glacier and made our way to the base of the 1st Gendarme. We roped up and tackled the Gendarme head on. It was in great shape due to the N facing aspect, it climbed and protected well. Once at the top of the 1st Gendarme, we spoke of rappelling, but having trouble finding any suitable anchors, Mike lead out the downward traverse. This ended up being the crux of the route. As soon as he stepped out of vision, all I could hear was the sound of constant rock fall coming off the ridge. This was Mike digging for marginal piton placements. Conditions eased up a bit and we simul'd from the top of the 1st Gendarme to the top of the 3rd. The 3rd Gendarme lead to a similar down climb of the ridge. This block lead to the base of the Wickwire Variation of the Upper Buttress. Mike took over and charged up the narrow ice gully,he stopped at the junction where the Wickwire merges with the Becky. We ended up making a 50 meter rappel due to sun soaked rime ice that wouldn't support body weight. It was turning into shooting gallery as the temps warmed up. From here we skirted the base to join the Queens Chair following moderate slopes to the summit ridge. A quick couple summit shots and we made our way back down Illumination Saddle. Me looking as awkward as I felt on ski's... Gear Notes: 6 or so pitons, 4 pickets, 6 screws, ski's.

Have any pictures of the gap?

I think you may be thinking of this route http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=942982 . I'm not sure on the first ascent, though being it's a Mark Twight route, I wouldn't doubt it'

Road open to the trail head?!

Looks fat! I spent my time climbing the wrong spots while in CO!

It is worth noting that the climb does lack consistent gear, and that to be found is often questionable at that. The routes cruxes supplied poor protection well beneath you. It may be worth a read of Wayne Wallace's trip report from awhile back before deciding on this one! http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Main/10350/Number/140726 That being said,we had a blast and it's a great alpine climb for anybody up for it .