Matt Lemke

Trip: Argonaut Peak - NE Couloir Date: 5/31/2013 Trip Report: Climbed Argonaut Peak yesterday with Daniel via the NE couloir. Fresh snow thwarted our initial plan of climbing the NW arete but we had lots of fun anyways. Snow in excellent shape but many of the rock routes may need to wait a bit for this recent snow to melt. We descended the east gully after a couple 30 meter raps and a traverse across a wet ledge. The 2,500 foot glissade down the Colchuck glacier was incredible! Beautiful day out with great views. See the link below for more details and photos. Argonaut Peak NE Couloir Approach Notes: Stay on the talus 100 feet above and to the west of Mountaineer creek when you leave the trail...cairns mark the way well

For some reason the photos don't work

Looking for someone to climb with all day Friday and Saturday this upcoming week. Climbs I am interested in at the moment include: Sherpa Peak North Ridge Outer Space Any north side route on Argonaut Prussik Peak/witches tower Buckner NF + Horseshoe Peak South Early Winters Spire SW rib Mount Torment/The Triad and the list goes on and on... email mlemke100@gmail.com if interested. I have fri-sat open as well as monday/tuesday morning but not sunday.

What were you initially planning to do?

I have been looking for a partner for tomorrow as well...I was planning to solo the north face of mcclellan butte but would love company if that interests you

Anyone wanting to climb in 11worth Monday? I will already be there so you would have to meet. Would like to climb Outer Space or anything in the 5.8-9 range. I can follow 10's though. I am also interested in climbing the Tooth Tuesday morning if anyone is interested in doing this. Feel free to email mlemke100@gmail.com or respond here cheers

Anyone have Monday open? Looking to take advantage of the weather window on Monday. Would like to do Chair, but would be down for anything really. shoot me an Email: mlemke100@gmail.com I check it all the time.

Oops...sorry I forgot I took the photo on his second climb after he led it lol. Updated the caption

Ryan top roping the Breakfast of Champions 5.10a crack at the Index Town Wall after he led it

Sunrise over the Index Massif - January 2013

Josh crossing a snow bridge on the Inspiration Glacier

Bring your rock shoes and go to Vantage...might see you there!

Thanks for posting this...I'll be there

OK thanks everyone for the comments. I thnk i will write up a shortened version of a TR I have basically just summing it up then adding a few pics before putting a link in. Since I travel and climb literally everywhere (and will my whole life) I use Summitpost as my primary TR and photo location since it isn't restriced to one localized area.

I was just curious to know if you guys get upset if someone post a trip report to CC which is simply an outside link (to summitpost for example) I write trip reports when I can but don't have the time to re-write and re-format them for every other climbing site it may be related to. Can I do that if I have a good TR worth reading? Thanks for the feedback!

We did simul-climb the final 500 feet of the couloir with a 30m rope and 3 pickets. It was certainly 50 degrees and not in the best condition for arresting in the event of a fall. Had the snoe been in better condition (say like in June) we probably would have just soloed it up. And I agree...Rock Creek area is fantastic! Going back this June for the NE couloir on Castle! It's Sundance Pass BTW

A great year for me! 1) Leading my first Alpine trad climb - North Ingalls South Ridge in October 2) Forbidden Peak West Ridge in September 3) Dome Peak/Spire Point in August 4) Whitetail Couloir on Whitetail Peak in the Montana Beartooth Mountains in July 5) Mount Rainier Emmons Route with great friends in July

I'd be down but can't leave until Sat afternoon. I don't have to be back until Monday at 4 though. I'm not convinced about the weather though. I'd like to maybe also get out on my skins and skis too. E-mail me at mlemke100@gmail.com

I am looking for a gym partner as well...morning work great for me. I am trying to get much more serious about climbing and don't have any regular partners yet feel free to E-mail me at mlemke100@gmail.com

Anyone want to ride share or join me on a trip to Montana/Colorado starting Dec 25th or 26th? Looking for someone to help with gas and go somewhere cool away from this terrible weather. I am headed east on I-90 to Billings and plan to stop in a few places in Montana like the Beartooth Mountains for some alpine climbing or Bozeman for some ice climbing. Then continue to Denver down I-25 for some climbing with friends waiting for me there. Peaks like Kit Carson, Little Bear, Hagerman etc on the agenda then. This will also work for the return trip as I will be coming back to the Seattle area on January 7th. Anyone interested? What I or we do is flexible but I do want to get one Beartooth Mountain peak and one winter Colorado 14er while hanging with friends I have from CO and do some ice climbing somewhere. I can also just drop you off wherever you want as well and we can go separate ways. I'd like to have any interested people be able to pay 40% of the gas (I'll cover 60) whenever riding together. Example: If you want me to drop you off in Bozeman, you'd pay for 40% of the gas to took to go from Seattle to Bozeman. Obviously the more people we have the better. I can fit three people comfortable which includes myself so two additional people. Feel free to E-mail me at mlemke100@gmail.com or reply here or PM. Thanks!

Well look who found their way into my territory... Welcome to the Pacific Northwest!

PM'd

The forth creek trail crosses the teanaway just to the east of the Longs Pass trail. There are something like 6-7 trails the cross the teanaway to reach Ingalls Creek.

Anyone want to climb Argonaut Peak on Sunday? Plan would be to drive to the TH (approaching via Forth Creek Trail) Saturday afternoon and hopefully cross the pass and camp near Ingalls Creek. Then climb the standard south route Sunday and hike out. Weather Sunday doesn't look too bad. Really wanting to get out this weekend. E-mail ma at mlemke100@gmail.com I respond almost instantly

You and I are just about equal with skill...I just have a little more alpine experience. West Ridge of Forbidden is one fantastic climb. I too am wanting to learn to ski. I have lots of trad gear and some cheap skis I'm learning on. I'm looking for some good fall/winter climbs the remainder of this year. Actually, if you are open this Saturday night (after 5)/Sunday I am looking to climb something on Sunday with a drive out to the TH Saturday night. Argonaut was on my mind (near Mount Stuart) if you are interested. I also want to climb other various snow routes to train for a potential Peru trip next July. My E-mail is mlemke100@gmail.com....feel free to contact me there.