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123tom

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Everything posted by 123tom

  1. Awesome shots love the tent, moon and light!
  2. thanks for the info, I hope you are right!
  3. The avalanche forecast was for "considerable" on S aspects above 6000 feet, as I recall. NWAC defines considerable as: "Dangerous avalanche conditions. Careful snowpack evaluation, cautious route-finding and conservative decision-making essential." You are right and i should have read more about the definitions on their website, that is is a more dangerous rating than i perceived KaskadskyjKozak. Thank you for all the comments. This was my first time climbing Hood and the last chance I will have for the next 6 months so I took greater risks thank usual. (I live in the PNW but work in Tahoe as a boat mechanic)I am fairly new to alpine climbing and joined this forum to learn more and find partners to climb with. Any criticism is appreciated.
  4. there was ice fall, due to the warm temps, but it was pretty small, and consistent in its fall patterns. The avalanche conditions were "considerable to moderate" according to nwac. But higher on the mt seemed more favorable, at least I was not worried to much about slides. As for taking some "serious risks" I guess that could be said but it is relative to owns own risk assessment and what they are climbing. A good day on the north face of the Eiger would be a heinous day on Mt Hood.
  5. Trip: mt hood - south side Date: 4/22/2012 Trip Report: The weather and avalanche forecast was looking good for sunday. So I decided to have another attempt on Mt Hood. I went to bed at about 11pm and woke up at 3 am, was climbing by 5:20 and reached the summit at 10:20. I kept a fast pace due to my late start. I soloed the whole climb till the last 800ft when I teamed up with some guys I meet there. The last section of the climb was intense with lots of steep hard snow and ice. I regretted not bringing a rope and second ice tool. All in all a great climb to start off the 2012 season! Gear Notes: Pearly gates require use of two tools and gear if you want to be safe.
  6. cool times, thanks for the report
  7. Thanks for the report hope to be up there soon
  8. I think the best approach to meals for climbing is to mimic what you eat something you would eat at home and add some things with higher calorie content. Peter Croft talks about this in his book lightweight alpine climbing.
  9. Nice pics looks like a great trip
  10. thanks for the reply, ill check there
  11. I was wondering if anyone new the current snow conditions in the sierras and the probable forecasts of some ice on the alpine routes in the eastern sierras. I will be working in Tahoe this summer and wanted to do some alpine snow and ice climbs this summer and late fall. Interested in Mt Gilbert, Mt Thompson, Palisades, North Peak etc.. Just got Eastern Sierra Guide book and getting stoked. However I heard it was a kinda bad winter. Any info is much appreciated. thanks Tom
  12. 123tom

    new to here

    Hey man I work at Crystal Bay Marine my coworker detailed for Sunnyside. I have a membership at the circuit but have mainly been meeting sport climbers and people who talk about climbing outside but never seem too...
  13. Trip: mt hood - south side Date: 3/24/2012 Trip Report: I arrived at timberline with light winds around 3 am yesterday but after an hour of climbing the wind really picked up and I turned around. Hopefully we will get some better weather soon.
  14. 123tom

    new to here

    Hi my name is Tom I am new to the climbing scene here in the cascade and looking to get into alpine and ice. I have experience on rock. I am a seasonal boat mechanic from the tahoe are and I now live near vancouver wa, however i still work the summer and fall season in Tahoe. Anyway I just wanted to introduce myself and see if anyone is interested in doing some climbing. thanks
  15. looking for someone to climb mt hood in the next few weeks I work seasonally and can usually go any day. I would like to climb an easier route to start like the south side. I have never climbed mt hood before but feel I would do fine as I am in shape and can self arrest fine. I just want someone to go with as I have never been up there before. thanks tom
  16. I was there a few weeks ago, such a great place. My favorite climbs were white lightning and touch and go. I did the 5.5 or something like that multipitch by walk on the wild side that climbs the crack and chimney it was rad and pretty run out like most of the climbs there.
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