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Nate J

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Everything posted by Nate J

  1. have any technical routes been climbed on the large cliffs below the summit of mt si? i'm talking about the southwest face- lines that lead to the summit, not the exit 32 cragging. thanks.
  2. what makes big continuous cracks in rock? i'm familiar with the freezing and expansion of rock causing cracks, but it doesn't seem likely that big continuous cracks (e.g. city park at Index on granite, or Supercrack at Indian Creek on sandstone) form that way. Maybe I'm wrong? Does something geological explain the cracks? (Intrusion of different rock types deep underground) It is something structural in the rock (eg the crystaline structure can support the weight and fractures) Why do big rocks have cracks?
  3. I want to hear your stories of gear pulling at Vantage (or elsewhere, but especially Vantage). Please include the following: 1. description of fall (amt rope out, fall distance, how far above piece(s) that pulled) 2. what failed? 3. your assessment of placement 4. your assessment of rock quality where gear was placed (including rock type) 5. did anything break? (wires, slings, biners, rock?) 6. lesson(s) you learned 7. anything else you think is interesting I'm curious to see if there are any common themes. -Nate J
  4. Really a bunch of climbers and there's not one person arguing for el-cheapo clothing? What happened to the DIY spirit of climbing? Weren't folks making their own nuts at one point? Some gear is worth spending the cash and getting good stuff, other things are not. Your calculations should be your own based on your uses and desires. As a weekend-warrior alpine and crag climber I'm really happy with the salvation army wool, EMS/REI brand base layers and fleece, and work pants that I climb in. My shells are the cheap outdoors companies, my sleeping bags cheap, and my tents and sleeping pads cheap. My puffy- not so cheap, but I love it. I've done alpine climbs, lots of cragging, long backpacks, bike trips, canoe trips etc with this set-up. I do forestry work with this gear to- not really just a fair weather weekend warrior. Cheap and mid-range clothing is just fine for me. check out the subject of this post:http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1060543/Re_even_Fred_knows#Post1060543 dont see any dead birds on his clothing. -Nate J
  5. Nice job and nice pics! I sure did feel like swimming up through the trees there like you said.
  6. are you willing to sell the cams separately? if so how much?
  7. Hi all, Follow the link attached for a interesting, if a little academic, talk on safety, human resiliency in the face of adversity, and risk managment. About a half hour. It's in the context of wildland fire, but definately applies to climbing. It's insightful. You have to enter your email address and sign up to view the presentation. https://www1.gotomeeting.com/register/863266385 what do you all think about the football helmet analogy? do you take more risk climbing with a helmet on? i know i do. how about perscriptive rules being appropriate for novices but not for experts? i've definetely had conversations on that topic with other climbers. -Nate J
  8. Hi all, I have a brand new 9.4mm 60M Petzl Fuse single rope for sale for $190. The rope is still in original cardboard wrapping. If you're in the Seattle area we can meet up, otherwise I can ship if you cover shipping. This rope is light (56g/m), burly, and rated for use as a single rope. I've got another one that I use myself. PM if interested. -Nate J
  9. I'm likely headed out there tomorrow. Happy to let you know how it goes or meet up with you out there. -Nate J 781-927-5341
  10. Hi all, any thoughts on the climbability of the lower town wall and great northern slabs at index? looks like may be sunny this weekend. looking to get up some of the .7 .8 multipitch.
  11. anyone want to climb at a cold, possibly snowy vantage this weekend. one day or both. -Nate J
  12. hi, looking to pick up some big crack pro and not break the bank. -Nate J
  13. Trip: Ingall's North Peak - South Ridge Date: 10/26/2011 Trip Report: Ingall's North Peak South Ridge 10/23/11 Cooking dinner in the rain is my least favorite thing. Unavoidable at the Ingall's Lake trailhead Saturday eve, not a good sign for a climb the next day. Brought my partner, Kit, through a climbing refresher at sunny Vantage Saturday afternoon. Now for some nourishment, beer, and sleep, sounds nice except for the rain. Woke at midnight to relieve some of that beer, and the stars were out! My intuition said the climb was in the bag. 9am we're packed and on the trail. Gorgeous day, getting windier toward Ingall's pass. Passed some soaked but happy backpackers drying out by the lake. Scrambled up the slabs, eyeing out the best route among snow covered talus. Roped up around 1215 just on the back side of Beckey's "dog tooth". Cool and windy hear, so I dawned my puffy, hat, and gloves. Lead out that first slab and traversed the top of the gully to the first belay station- a boulder slung with webbing. The second pitch was a the real rock climbing of the whole bit- great to be moving in the sunshine and protected from the prevailing west wind- the gloves came off. Third pitch was short, built an anchor in the rock just behind and below the existing 3 bolts to protect a pull towards Kit- tied into my anchor and the bolts. Somewhere along the line here I scraped up my knuckles good and was getting blood on gear, pants, jacket. 315 we pitched out the cold, windy summit scramble for fun and keep the risk super low. The descent was good, but we were getting tired and ready to be off the rock. We rappelled the climbing route. First rap was straight forward. The second rap left me at the end of our 60m rope about 15ft above the next rappel station ledge. I plugged some gear and belayed Kit while he downclimbed the few feet and then I downclimbed the same. This all was stressful. It was getting late and the cold wind wasn't fun anymore. A full third rap put us in the gully west of the dog's tooth. Terra firma- 415. The pressure was off and life was good again. Absolutely stunning alpenglow on Stuart while we hiked out to Ingall's pass.We got about halfway down from the pass before switching on the headlamps. Brew's and burgers in Cle Elum rounded out a great late-season alpine climb!
  14. Ingall's North Peak South Ridge 10/23/11 Cooking dinner in the rain is my least favorite thing. Unavoidable at the Ingall's Lake trailhead Saturday eve, not a good sign for a climb the next day. Brought my partner, Kit, through a climbing refresher at sunny Vantage Saturday afternoon. Now for some nourishment, beer, and sleep, sounds nice except for the rain. Woke at midnight to relieve some of that beer, and the stars were out! My intuition said the climb was in the bag. 9am we're packed and on the trail. Gorgeous day, getting windier toward Ingall's pass. Passed some soaked but happy backpackers drying out by the lake. Scrambled up the slabs, eyeing out the best route. Roped up around 1215 just on the back side of Beckey's "dog tooth". Cool and windy hear, so I dawned my puffy, hat, and gloves. Lead out that first slab and traversed the top of the gully to the first belay station- a boulder slung with webbing. The second pitch was a the real rock climbing of the whole bit- great to be moving in the sunshine and protected from the prevailing west wind- the gloves came off. Third pitch was short, built an anchor in the rock just behind and below the existing 3 bolts to protect a pull towards Kit- tied into my anchor and the bolts. Somewhere along the line here I scraped up my knuckles good and was getting blood on gear, pants, jacket. 315 we pitched out the cold, windy summit scramble for fun and keep the risk super low. The descent was good, but we were getting tired and ready to be off the rock. We rappelled the climbing route. First rap was straight forward. The second rap left me at the end of our 60m rope about 15ft above the next rappel station ledge. I plugged some gear and belayed Kit while he downclimbed the few feet and then I downclimbed the same. This all was stressful. It was getting late and the cold wind wasn't fun anymore. A full third rap put us in the gully west of the dog's tooth. Terra firma- 415. The pressure was off and life was good again. Absolutely stunning alpenglow on Stuart while we hiked out to Ingall's pass.We got about halfway down from the pass before switching on the headlamps. Brew's and burgers in Cle Elum rounded out a great late-season alpine climb!
  15. so i've got a partner, and a third member too. if anyone wants to come along and lead the three pitches independently to make two ropes of two people, that'd be efficient. plan is to leave saturday and spend the day messing around up the teanaway, sleep at the trailhead, and go for ingalls on sunday.
  16. anyone interested in the south ridge of ingall's this weekend? (3 pitch, 5.4) I know the forecast is grim- but if you think this sounds interesting pm me. -Nate J
  17. i'd say vantage is better for fun sport leads, but leavenworth for easy trad leads. fun easy trad at barnie's rubble (one 5.6, one 5.8) that you can top rope, also other areas near the road in leavenworth. there are some fun easy trad leads at vantage too- but more at leavenworth. i don't enjoy the sport routes i've climbed at leavenworth, too slabby for my taste. sport at vantage has alot of large to small sized positive holds. fun climbing.
  18. did you find someone? i can't do anything saturday- but can play sunday. cragging or day-trip alpine. i can lead to 5.7, happy follower to the mid 5.10s. have nuts, hexes, and single set BD cams .4-3. -Nate J
  19. hi all, i'm in seattle, looking for a partner to climb at leavenworth or vantage saturday and or sunday. mix sport and trad, have fun, enjoy the sunshine. pm or call if interested 781-927-5341. -Nate J
  20. looking for a partner to climb at vantage sat and sunday. leaving from seattle either tonight or early tomorrow. got wheels if you can split gas. hoping to lead some easy trad and do some sport routes. email at: ngjohnso@gmail.com or call 781-927-5341. -Nate J
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