Laughingman

Aliens have a 16.25 degree cam angle. Metolius has a 13.25 cam angle. Math wise the Metolius master cam puts more force outward on the rock and should result in more holding power. So it does have some advantages. I however avoid woven sheaths Cams in general as much as possible for others reasons... From Colin Haley Colin Haley equipment for alpinism "Avoid cams with woven-sheathed cables (Aliens) for alpine climbing, as they can freeze up and become useless, dead weight."

Give people a heads up about good climbing fiction out and about. A cool manga was made a couple of years ago about climbing called KOKOU NO HITO about a alpinist/ soloist who climbs big routes (culminating in a alpine style ascent of K2 west face). The art is well done and author actually did his research in terms of realness. The story is far more psychological drama then a epic about the main characters tormented soul then pure climbing. Various bootleg copies are available online ( the manga is not legally available in english so your good)

Anybody else have problems with the supercams? Did you contact Metolius and tell them of the problem?

Anybody else use the Metolius "Supercams" I am debating picking up a gray one. For the weight it seems ideal for the alpine (I have seen several videos in which Steve House sports one on the side of his rack).

Are the larger size TCU's (2,3,4) "better" then the smaller sized powercams? (1,2,3) Also I am looking for Cams more for Alpine climbing then yosemite. So aliens don't seem like the greatest option to me.

As much as been talked about in terms of small cams (like the Tcu) but is there a problem with medium sized U stem cams? I was thinking of buying powercams 3,4,5 and possibly six. Also has anyone actually used the new helium cams?

Yeah I've rolled mostly with nuts in the past (most of the routes I did tended to require very little protection anyways). Also are the bigger Tcu cams "less" likely to walk then smaller 4 cam versions?

"I would choose a set of cams that is very common around where you climb." I came from a "classical mountaineering" background (NOLS and so on) so I mostly climbed classical alpine routes, however I am getting to the point in which having a few cams will be handy. Thus I am looking for "common sizes" for general alpine routes in the cascades.

Have you read this comparison? Indeed I have read the comparison however the review did not talk about the quadcams.

Hi am in the process of putting climbing rack together. I've looking to buy 3 or 4 cams to start off (already got passive stuff covered). I am wondering what peoples opinion of the new Wired Bliss cams are? Also how do they compare to the Metlious Powercams or DMM CU4. Also I am wondering what sizes would be handy to start out with.I am looking for input before making this investment so any advice is appreciated. Note: C4 cams don't "feel" great in my hands. Also the fact they are made in china creeps me out. If anybody can convince me otherwise I am willing to listen.

The cold cold world valdez (made in the USA) pack is great for climbing.

"krokodil" I have learned also has a very high death rate most addicts die within 3 years.

True but opiates give you a slightly "better" life life expectancy then krokodil.

I told you man don't google image it, you will be kept up at night.

Recently I saw an documentary called "SIBERIA: KROKODIL TEARS" it gives a bleak story about how a new heroin substitute called "Krokodil" that literally eats your skin off is invading southern russia. Siberia: Krokodil tears Don't google Krokodil you will see many photographs that will keep you up at night Note: VICE TV is boss they go across the world to the most screwed up places and interview real people checkout the Vice guide to North Korea and liberia

PHD (the british company) makes a down blanket weighing 13oz, looks like it may fit the bill for the intended purpose. PHD blanket They also make the "Minim Ultra Down Sleeping Bag" weighing in at a ultralight 345g (12oz) (They make some super cool stuff)

Looking for a Grivel salamander or Kong scarab helmet in reasonably good condition around the seattle/Eastside area. Willing to pay in cash in person best regards PM me if interested

Best of luck in your long road to recovery, my thoughts go out to you. Such a deeply personal issue must be hard to talk about, let alone on television. I applaud your effort to go and speak about the issue. Best regards Zach

What size are the pants?

Your in luck a company named Oware sells two variations on the two person bivy (one with zippers one without) at 12oz it seems like a good deal. Here is the link oware

Im sure they "could" but they don't have a oligarch to pay for such expensive a endeavor.

Strangely, Andy Kirkpatrick recently attempted Troll Wall, he fixed lots of pitches. I didn't here a outcry from the climbing community. When a russian team climbed the Trango Towers in August the Alpinist read, "Russians Siege Trango, Put Up New Route". If a western team had done the same climbed it would have called capsule style.

For the ultimate "high top" rock shoe Boreal makes the "fire invernal guetre" a insulated shoe designed with super masochistic big wall climbers in ultra cold conditions (think 20,000 feet+ on himalayan big walls).

Boreal still makes "Ballet gold" shoes, they are really hard to find though. I got mine second hand. Also there is a czech company called triop that makes a high top (never used there shoes before). here is the link triop

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