Laughingman

Got to agree with Julian on this one, the central question we should be asking is what is a acceptable location to do full on siege-style aid climbing? Also according to some people on the Jannu expedition, some ropes were removed from the wall. Nick Totmjanin ( one of the summiteers) is quoted as saying: "I went down from the top last. We took down seven ropes above 7400, the portaledge of camp 7400, two ropes above 7000, tent and equipment of camp 7000, the portaledge of camp 6700, some ropes between 5600 and 7000, tent and equipment of camp 5600. We have taken downwards a maximum possible at one time.” Still that leaves 1000M of fixed line of the mountain that is never in good taste(I hate trash on mountains just as much as the next guy). I also suspect at the bottom of the "big wall" they may have ditched a lot of the gear they stripped from the wall.

I was alluding the fact most big wall climbers in the United States have never done technical aid climbing at 20,000ft+ with a full big-wall rack in horrid conditions and still have have the will to get up the next morning and do the exact same thing. Even give the money and time "most" Americans would quickly give up on such a exposed line on such a big route such as the Jannu. If high level alpinists want to prove that the Russian Jannu ascent is "irrelevant" to modern climbing, they should prove it, go out and climb it in light and fast fashion.

Currently I think there are very few people in the United States who have the background to do "himalayan big walls". Guys like Conrad Anker, Jimmy Chin, and Renan Ozturk are examples, but they are few and far between. Most of the big wall climbers out of yosemite are not used to the harsh conditions russian big wall dudes are accustomed to. Here is a article about the ascent Jannu

FRED = BOSS

I know I am going to be flamed for saying this: Personally, I don't have a problem with the "style" the Russians climbed the Jannu (Not to say I "liked" the style). I just wish they did not leave as much trash on the wall (something like 20+ fixed ropes and several camps). I figure if light and fast proponents want to complain about the style the Russian climbed in then they should go out and prove that It can be done in light and fast fashion (To my to my knowledge Nobody has repeated the route). Also I read that Ueli Steck tried to climb the Jannu North face twice in 2002/2003 if anybody can translate this article that would be helpful Jannu Nordwand

I am under the impression many of the "russian big wall project" climbs are done in places that don't really necessitate free-climbing (20,000+ feet from sea level in Millet everest boots) Is this true? Also has the "russian big wall project" been scraped? Last I checked It was financed by one of the big oligarch (Not khodorkovsky) that are increasingly becoming an endangered.

Does anybody know if the coveted North face of the Jannu has been attempted since the russians sieged the wall out in 2004? Also very few of the last of the great himalayan "big walls" have been climbed by Americans in the last decade or so. In the same time frame the Russians managed to climb the big walls on Jannu, Changabang, Pik 4810 (look it up), Ak-Su and countless others. Style aside, is there a fundamental difference in ideology and tolerance for adversity that americans don't have? Or is the russian style of climbing simply better at producing results at the expense of style? below Pik 4810

Looking for a regular sized Grivel Salamander helmet preferably in good condition around the greater Seattle area Willing to pay in cash in person for a good deal PM me if you are interested best regards

Looking for a regular sized Grivel Salamander helmet preferably in good condition around the greater Seattle area Willing to pay in cash in person for a good deal PM me if you are interested best regards

Anybody use "Brynje" (fishnet style) base layers? How do they compare to modern wool and synthetics? Also does anyone in the US distribute them. They look like this for people who have never seen them

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For sale, a used Charlet moser "pulsar" ice tool. This is the hammer version and comes with a leash. Used but still has tons of life in it. Going for 45 dollars Pickup around Seattle/ Eastside cash only in person Pm me if interested

Have a used Charlet Moser Pulsar ice tool in good condition, cosmetic ware is visible but nothing wrong with the tool itself. The tool comes with a hammer Price 45 dollars I will post pictures soon available around eastside/ seattle for pickup Cash only, no personal checks

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For many of the worlds top alpinist it seems common to use a single double rope (8.0-8.6)mm instead of a fully rated single rope. How "safe" is this system for moderate ice and alpine climbs and ridges with little rock (like the north ridge of Baker).

Marmot scree pants size large green: 50 dollars only used lightly (never used with crampons) still have tons of life in them, just did not fit me. available in Seattle/ east side for pickup in person, PM me if you are interested

Anyone used the Singing Rock Guru Climbing Harness? looks like it may fit needs

Marmot scree pants size large green great condition 45 dollars North face 300 weight jacket 30 dollars Can get pictures if you inquire Pm me if you are interested Cash only, in person no personal checks pickup around seattle/ east side willing to drive slightly longer if need be

Personally i don't mind using a all around harness trad harness well alpine climbing, except most suck when wearing a backpack with any sort of hip belt. Anybody have a harness that works well with a pack on?

I have used the alpine Bod before and did not really enjoy it. I felt the lack of a suitable belay loop really hurt performance of the harness.

Hi guys I am looking into buying a new harness for alpine climbing and am looking for suggestions any help will be much appreciated. At the moment i cannot afford a 120 dollar arcteryx harness. Has anyone used the CAMP coral harness ( looks more featured then most mountaineering harnesses. Also the Camp AIR and AIR CR look like they would suite my needs.

I went and tried out the boots, they fit me well (I have narrow heels). The boots have a much better fit then the La Sportiva trangos i own. They appear to be stiff enough for alpine ice but still walk fairly well. Lowa boots appear to be fairly narrow, does this hold true for the entire climbing boot line ( Lowa Vertical, Silberhorn etc)? Does anybody know of boot maker that makes Narrow boots outside of Lowa and La Sportiva?

Need to get rid of a bunch of lacrosse gear and willing to sell for cash at a low price or trade for climbing gear PM me if you are interested available for pick up in the general seattle/ east side area. Cash only non personal checks [im university of maryland Custom Ipro lacrosse gloves 70 dollars Custom cpx lacrosse helmet 75 dollars Custom Ipro titanium lacrosse helmet 80 dollars

Sorry guys got my glaciers mixed up ( we crossed at least 10) several routes off the Bell glacier, Geddes and elsewhere looked to have not been climbed. I have gone back and corrected myself I will indeed enlighten myself with Don Serl's Book

I was intending to use the boot in a mixed climbing and moderate alpine ice (north ridge of baker, etc) climbing application, does this seem appropriate?