KyleJ

I’m still shocked. I’ve known Grey since he moved to Portland two years ago. He was one of the most positive people I have ever met, and was always stoked to get out. He will be greatly missed. Thanks to those who helped at the site, especially getting his partner down safely. Positive vibes to his family as they deal with this tragedy.

I just wanted to give an update, as you all gave me lots of great suggestions. While not getting out as much as I had hoped, I think I'm still making some good progress on my crack skills. I have been trying to get on cracks at Rocky Butte when it is dry. I try to get a couple of laps on the new cracks at PRG whenever I get the chance. I have learned to love perfect hands and despise thin hands. Finger locks aren't really uncomfortable anymore. I also was able to do my first trad lead a few weeks ago on Cinammon Slab at Smith. I am definitely hooked. I will probably start doing some aid just to practice placing gear. Just wanted to say thanks to all of you for the suggestions. I still have a bunch of climbs on my list to finish by the end of the year. Hopefully I will get a chance to get out to Beacon when it opens!

Figure I will piggy-back on this thread rather than start my own. I did my first trad lead a couple of weeks ago and am looking for similar around Portland. SE Corner at Beacon? Any other routes jump out for easy trad leads?

Another PM sent, just in case

Wasn't able to make it today, but I sent you a PM in case we get another nice weather day soon.

Sent you a PM

I just read this entire thread. Two thoughts: 1) I feel like I have fallen into the internet thread equivalent of the Thunderdome, and it is lasting *forever* 2) I really need to get on some Beacon Rock this year

What's having AS like? Does it have a huge affect on what you can do or is it manageable? Hope mine is just injury related... The main effects of AS (for me) are in the SI joint and middle back. Back is painful, or at least tight, most of the time; at its worst after sleeping, then better as the day goes on and it loosens up. That is mostly managed by ibuprofen so I can sleep, but otherwise I have gotten used to it and it doesn't really keep me from doing things. I manage the SI joint issues by completely avoiding any high-impact activities like running. This usually keeps it at a mild throb, though about once a month it will get bad enough that I am visibly limping. On the upside, I am starting a medication for it tomorrow, (diagnosed after ten years.) Hoping that will clear up a lot of the symptoms. Didn't mean to freak you out. I wouldn't worry too much about a major condition causing the SI joint stuff. They are pretty rare. Like has been said, there are lots of things that can cause the SI joint to get inflamed. If you haven't started yet, I would try doing the stretches and if necessary see a PT.

I have had SI issues for many years. It turns out mine was due to an underlying condition, Ankylosing Spondylitis. In times when it flares up, these stretches seem to help a bit: There was also another that I can't find a video for... it involved laying on the floor with one leg straight, and the other leg up and bent, with the foot placed on the opposite side, over the opposing leg. You twist in the direction of the bent leg until you get a gentle pulling, and repeat that a few times. Worst stretch description ever. I will edit this post if I can find a better one. Good luck to you. That can be a painful spot.

No need to go any further than Crillz post. I 100% agree. This stuff below (except for the kids play area) is all bullshit and unneeded. * A kids' play area (not a bad idea actually) A juice bar Beer A sauna Indoor deep water soloing I can get beer at home, DWS is overrated and all those people lining up for those routes will be getting the rocks super wet. All that is needed is cracks, real ones, varied and long....not the kind Dave alludes too:-) LONG!!!!! So you can get some cardio going. This area is supersaturated with gyms, and all of them are damned good. PRG, Stoneworks and Circuit all great. BUT, none have the crack thing going on. Club Sport has 3 cracks but they are strange and few people seem to get on them. I think PRG might have put some in I haven't been there for a long time. Make the F**King things adjustable in steepness so that when some 10 year old pup who's climbing 5.13 gets on it he can adjust it real steep and overhanging but then an old weak pussy like myself gets on it I can ratchet it back to something that resembles Glacier Point Apron. You know what I mean. And different sizes too, with constrictions that mimic real rock. The Mazamas clubhouse in PDX has that almost going on on their wall. Apparently the cracks at PRG are getting a revamping in the next couple of months, during their addition (link) I doubt it will include the suggestions people have made here, but maybe it will be an improvement?

Cracks!

Thanks for the great post, Bill, (and everyone else!) At the end of last year I was climbing low 10s, so even in sport climbing I'm still a beginner, (though I have been climbing off-and-on for a while due to elbow tendon issues.) I might check out some of those climbs at the Butte, as I live right near there, (hopefully we can get some more cleanups done this year, too!) I looked into the Mazamas courses last year, and was hoping to get into the Advanced Rock this year, but other things have kept me from applying. I read the lectures are open to the public; is this true? If so, I would love to just sit in on those, then maybe take the actual course next year to get the hands-on experience. I've already read most of the recommended books for it, but I don't have any delusions about how much that knowledge will actually help on the rock. Thanks again, everyone

Awesome. Thanks for all the great spots, everyone. I have the beginnings of a small rack, just accumulating things from sales, etc, but I am certainly in no hurry to lead; I just want to start tackling cracks at my own pace. I'm sure I will meet someone to follow along the way. Really looking forward to this summer!

Hello all, My goal this year is to learn to not be intimidated by cracks, so I want to tackle this problem head-on in the summer. I'm in Portland, so somewhere like Squamish is probably out without a big trip, but I'm definitely willing to put in some travel hours to get to the best spots. I realize "sport cracks" don't make too much sense most places, but I don't know many people who lead trad here, so the ideal spot would be TR-able. I realize this greatly limits the options, but it is the situation I am in now. I'm just really motivated to get some crack hurt on this year. So, any ideas?

I hope to be there this week as well. I have only been back to climbing for a few months, (mostly inside), but am likely to be living incredibly close to Rocky Butte within the next few weeks. Looking forward to helping out and meeting you fine folks.