B Deleted_Beck

Howdy Looking for a fast pack that climbs well. Maximum load weight 30lbs, generally closer to 20. Needs two tool loops and compression straps on at least one side... bonus for gear loops and helmet-head clearance. Some of the packs I've been looking at - MH Summit Rocket 40 Golite Jam 35 BD Speed 40 BD Epic 45 Thoughts/experiences on these? Others to look at? Also extremely interested in peoples' experiences with un-framed packs Thanks -Ben

Nope. Did anyone ever bother explaining the "Y" to the media?

I'm looking for something to climb this weekend, but it'd have to be a solid route- what you looking at?

I've not yet climbed in the L, so I don't know what the crag culture is like up there.. but I put a couple very faint Xs on a couple loose holds on I-Rock to warn my slightly uncomfortable follower a couple weekends ago.. Does that make me a hero? There's an application for everything... some people like to douche it up and take things too far, but it doesn't make a given practice completely stupid

Fee?

Lemme guess...is it a Suunto? Yes, it is

Actually... that's bullshit... I did have to hike up about 100' of one of the terminal fingers of the glacier. It was chopped up, but still totally passable. May 5 extra minutes spent navigating big cracks. Forgot that lil detail --- So the chute was pretty solid, eh?? I've been sort of watching the temp up there- didn't think it'd been cold enough to solidify yet. Did you see anything falling off? --- Sheeiate... Freezing level's supposed to dip under 10,000' tomorrow night. Maybe it's time for round 2...

I crossed under the glacier and went straight up the ramp at 6,300'. I may have hopped off the Paradise trail lower than the standard route, but I did follow a trail most of the way down into the canyon. Between leaving the Paradise trail and stepping foot on the Wilson, I tread maybe a total of 30' of Nisqually Glacier. A couple sketchy moat crossings, but other than that, all dirt/mud/scree between Paradise trail and the Wilson.

Rescue will almost never come till morning anyway.

What, specifically, was the reason behind activating the beacon?

What's a rough average time o' year for Cloud Cap closing?

Did you have another soloist behind you on Hood? EDIT - Yep... I was the dude behind you on die Nordwand Weird, small community, this NW scene is.

douche dorée.

Well said, bro. Well said. Not to fuel the de-railment side of this thread, I think it really just comes down to some guys thinking their style of climbing is 'the' style of climbing, and any other way is unethical/inferior/noobish/whatever. For a sport with supposedly no rules, I've never felt a stronger vibe to conform than I have since I started climbing. Probably a big part of why I solo so much.

r u hawt

I'm quickly becoming an almost exclusive soloist... I pretty much expect that if anything goes wrong at all, I'm going to die. While I don't want to die, and think a phone might, might help in some unlikely-but-fortunate scenarios, that's not actually why I take a phone into the alpine. I have no compunction about going into areas where there is NO service available (so long as I know it and have no expectation of being able to check my VM). I'd rather eat it in the alpine in my 30s than linger, debilitated, racking up hundreds of thousands in Romney bills, into my 90s. We can drop that whole bag.

I've got sap on a couple ropes... it dries out and flakes off on its own. Sort of sucks to get sticky shit on your gear in the mean time, but we're seriously only talking a week of use or so. Dont worry aboot it.

What phone? I've had great luck with LG phones in the past, making me a fan.. but the last couple I've used have been POSs. I totally admit to being pretty clueless about these things, though, and don't have any idea what to look for beyond web and email interface

Futile indeed. Nevermind.

I'm a family man and a business man. I guess you Beckeys are just pro-climbers and have no other responsibilities- but I don't get to shut the world off when I want to climb. Let's stay on task here, gentlemen.

That may be true, but I still can't get calls out while other guys on the same network, with better phones, can.. and it's consistent.

Howdy My phone is a POS. It's the "$100" phone your salesman pulls a string with his manager to get you for "free" when you sign up. I knew it was a POS when I bought it, but I was broke... now I am no longer broke. I think I've concluded that the problem is with the output of the phone. On Adams, for instance, I had 3 bars, and my phone tried and tried and tried to connect from the summit, but couldn't get the call out. Never got a call out that whole trip, in fact. On Rainier, I get no less than 3 bars, sometimes even full signal, but getting a call out is sort of spotty. Hood, oddly enough, is hard to get a call out from anywhere, the summit most of all.... yet always have full bars. I'm obviously getting signal, just gotta get the signal out. I have Verizon, which I switched to solely based on fellow climbers' recommendation for service in the alpine. What phones are you guys getting the best results with? I don't want to break the bank, but I'm willing to drop a pretty shiny penny for something that works good.

There's glacier-free routes on all of Colorado's 14ers?

RIP

Do you think the occasional rap off the tree is going to taint the route more than the eroded holds, crusty chalk stains, and 6-odd rusted ass pins scarred into the rock?