dkatz12090

Located in Winthrop, Wa. Buyer pays for shipping/handling

Montbell shell overmittens - Men’s size M/L - $20 -like new condition, worn once Diamir Freeride bindings - $60 -lighty used, include all pieces/attachments Brooks Cascadia Running shoes - Men’s size 9.5 - $45 -great condition, worn just a few times, tread barely worn RedCamp lightweight alcohol burning stove - $10 -used once Hodgman Neoprene waders - Men’s size M - $30 -knee pad needs to be stitched, otherwise like new NRS Hydroskin long sleeve short - Men’s size M - $75 -Worn 3-4 times, like new condition Stohlquist Dry suit with liner - size M/S - $30 -rubber gaskets and chest zipper need replacement, otherwise good condition La Sportiva Piton rock climbing shoes - Men's size 9 $15 -great crack climbing shoes, recently resoled, good condition, classic Scarpa Rock climbing Shoes Womens size 8.5 - free -toe rubber cracking Email and I can send photos: dkatz12090@gmaildotcom Thanks

Wondering if anyone has been up to the enchantments in the last few days and has any info on conditions. Heading in for a few days next week and looking to climb whatever snow/ice/rock routes that are in good condition. I imagine the n. ridge of stuart still has some snow here and there? Thanks all!

Great, thanks so much! We'll be coming down Stuart on the N side, whether it is Sherpa Glacier, NW Buttress Rap, etc, since we'll be camping at stuart lake. Curious to see what the conditions are like on the n side this time of year

Also, looking for the Sherpa descent description by Hirst and Martin but cant find it.

Is there any detailed information on the northwest direct buttress descent (e.g. number of raps, length, etc.)?

Curious - why did you get turned back? Will be headed to Bear Mtn via Sumas crossing soon. Any advice?

would like to know this answer to this as well! Thanks in advance

Hey all, Is a 4WD and/or high clearance needed in order to get to the trailhead for climbing Slesse? Also, if coming from the south, which border crossing do your recommend? Thanks! Drew

Hi all, Heading up to the Methow next week, Mon-Sun. I will be staying at the hostel in Winthrop and working most mornings, but hoping to get out on some climbs (goat wall, wa pass, etc) in the afternoons. Rock, snow, etc... all good! Might be able to take a day or two off as well. If anyone wants to go out, go ahead and send me an email dkatz12090@gmail.com Thanks! Drew

Hey everyone, Headed to Yosemite at the end of May to do my first big wall climb (Salathe) and hoping to hone some skills before I go down. Live in Portland, and happy to practice locally (gorge), or head down to Smith on the weekends... If anyone has big wall experience and wants to practice, let's meet up! best, Drew

Thanks so much - Paisano-Burgundy was what I was thinking. Never been up there before, looking forward to it (hopefully it will dry up some!) Thanks for the visual beta - Great photos!

Hey there, looks like a fun day out. Thinking to head up there this week and was wondering if you got a look at any of the rock conditions up there? Did it look like snow had melted off most of the rock faces (north/south sides?), or were there still significant patches of snow? Thanks so much!

New to the area and would love to climb at Value Village but can't seem any info on it anywhere? Is there a map, list of climbs? Thanks everyone!

New to the area and would love to climb at Value Village but can't seem any info on it anywhere? Is there a map, list of climbs? Thanks everyone!

Thinking to do an early season climb of the south route on Prusik this weekend. Anyone been above Asgard recently? Would it be a mess to do without skis? What are the chances the the cracks on the south side are relatively dry? Any beta/thoughts would be much appreciated! See you out there this weekend Drew

Hi Everyone, Thinking to head up from Portland this weekend. Has anyone been up on Dragontail/Colchuck. What kind of conditions are to be found out there? Hoping to do either Dragontail or Serpentine... Or perhpas Ingalls Peak - is it possible to access the trailhead? Thanks all, Drew

Hi all, Tis the season of clear skies crisp nights, and dry streams. What is the likelihood there will be water below burgundy col this time of year? I've heard rumors of a permanent spring on thr bench somewhere? And what about mt Stuart, n ridge. Any chance that there will be a snow patch around the notch between the lower and upper n ridge? Thanks all! Be sure to get out there before the days get too short! Dres

Excellent! Thanks Oleg. Great info. Most importantly, what is everyone's favorite bivy site near marblemount? =)

Hey Oleg, Great photos and an amusing read. Will be headed up to do the FT Traverse next week hopefully. Just wondering if you can comment on conditions, esp. re: torment approach (SW ridge or face). Did you get a peak at any other parts of the ridge, or the West notch ascent/descent of Forbidden? Thanks so much! Drew

Thanks kurthicks - great beta!

Hey there - Does anyone know if there are bolts these days on the SE Face Route. Is is possible to climb it from bottom up? OR do most rap from the SE ridge route to just do the two pitches (as described by Nelson) - Thinking to head up there mid Sept. Thanks y'all! Drew

FWIW, I usually tie a kiwi coil with a normal tie off, and then tie an 8 or an overhand on a bight and clip in. A butterfly is unnecessary (the pull is still in one direction). Thanks everyone for the input. If clipping a figure eight on a bight or butterfly knot to your belay loop, would you use the same locking biner as you used to tie off the overhand of your backup, or use a separate biner altogether? Probably doesn't matter, but just curious....

Thanks - I;ll look into the kiwi coil. What about coiling the rope, then tying in wherever you are in the rope with a figure eight on a bight. that way is you fall, the pull is on your harness rather then on the rope around your shoulder?

Thanks everyone for the input. With a single rope, simul climbing on alpine rock, what is the best way for the follower to tie in assuming that he/she has coiled them rope (mountaineers coil?)? Kiwi coil? And with a half rope folded over, what is the best way for the leader/follower to tie in? thanks so much!