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dkatz12090

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Everything posted by dkatz12090

  1. did the route this weekend. Yes, you can rap with a single 60m. On at least two rappels we ended up a bit short of the next station and/or ground, and had to improvise (i.e downclimb, build anchor and downlead, etc) - nothing too sketchy. All the rap stations were more or less in good order with reliable slings. getting from the bivy site (just over the col) onto the glacier was the crux for us. You need to either down climb wet mossy rock, or descend/traverse steep snow. We choose the former being more comfortable on rock. great alpine setting. ciao
  2. I've read about people taking a singe rope, folding it in half, and then tying in (team of 2) for simul climbing, especially on moderate terrain (4th-5th class ridges).... How does this effect the simul process, if at all? I would want to clip into alternate ropes, as if in a half rope system, correct? I imagine coiling might be a bit more cumbersome if we wanted to climb closer together than 30m, but should still be manageable....any thoughts, experiences? What is the standard way for both the leader and follower to climb into such a systems. Figure 8 on a bite for the follower, and two normal figure eights for the leader? Thanks everyone! Drew
  3. I've got the same question! Anyone up there this weekend with a report. Would love to just go with the tennis shoes as compared to boots/crampons, etc!
  4. Heading up to prusik peak this weekend. Anyone know how much snow is left on asgard pass? Wondering if we should haul crampons up or not. Chances are we'll be coming down later in the day, so if there is significant snow it'd be good to know! Thanks yall Drew
  5. Thinking to head up this next weekend. Anyone head up sherpa this weekend?
  6. Hey all, 2 permits for the colchuck zone up for grabs for face value - 26th-30th of july send me an email at dkatz12090@gmail.com if you are interested! Thanks Drew
  7. Anyone get a read on the old chute route? Thinking to solo up there later in the week/weekend and wondering what the conditions are? Thanks so much!
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