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divnamite

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Everything posted by divnamite

  1. Are you trying to get the back of your boot heels flush with the crampons? If yes, that's not really necessary. Your boot heels can protrude pass the back of the crampons (1cm for the Lynx).
  2. I'm sure the new Lynx crampons are great. Rambo simply is the best.
  3. Patagonia is definitely good, both in store and web. Both Julbo and Mountain Hardwear answered my questions within two business days. Sportiva is also fast on response, but sometimes, the answer is not the same as dealers would tell me. Example of that is molding Spantik, Sportiva tells me it's doable, but no one will do it.
  4. So far, all of the watches I've looked at require chest belt. Any particular brand is better than the other? How comfortable are the belts?
  5. I finally decided to buy a HRM. Got on amazon and found 4XXX results. Any recommendations? I'm looking for minimal features but accurate. I don't care thing like for GPS, water resistance up to 100M, MP3, blah blah. I just need it tell me my heart rate accurately and the band is not too unconformable.
  6. If you want M11+, mountaineer has them onsale at 30%. http://mountaineer.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=MTR&Product_Code=M11Plus&Category_Code=55
  7. Are the toe bails adjustable on BD Sabretooth SS version? I've been climbing in them and notice the two downward tooth set back pretty far so I'm thinking to adjust the toe bails to the second sets of holes. I think I need to hammer them out but just trying to see any tricks to this.
  8. Got a code?
  9. For that price, why not just get BD Aspect and Couloir. Use Aspect for any technical stuff, Coulior for snow and easy stuff.
  10. Oops, forgot this thread. Anyway, my example would be climbs like Liberty Ridge, maybe Eastern Sierra alpine ice/snow routes like V-notch, etc.
  11. Last year, I got to play with Grivel Matrix Light a little and while I didn't climb hard with them, I definitely like them. I figure I'll play with them more this year. I researched a little, it seems there are basically four models out there: Black Diamond Venom Petzl Aztarex Grivel Matrix Light Grivel Quantum Light I think all of them can be fitted with trigger and grip rest. Anyone climb with these tools? comments?
  12. Jon, have you done any ice climbing in those boots? Two or three days trip out in the cold? Just wondering how they would perform.
  13. Yes, I'm gonna try on a few pair of them if I can find them in stock.
  14. According to sportiva, Spantik and Baruntse have the same last as the old "Nuptse". It's funny because Nuptse boots don't fit me at all, too narrow on the toe and massive heel lift. I just might give Scarpa Phantom Guide a try.
  15. I've been using Kinco Pigskin Gloves. Keep my hands warm entire day. Less than $10. [img:left]http://kinco.com/components/com_virtuemart/shop_image/product/LINED_GRAIN_PIGS_4bb6e74eb30d8.png[/img]
  16. Does anyone know if Nepal and Baturas have the same last (sole) as the Spantik? When I tried Nepal 3 years ago, they don't fit and kill my feet. I got the Spantik last winter and they fit really nice with super feet. Just want to have a lighter pair of boots for winter outings.
  17. I can get some good deals on crampons, so they both will come out to be the same price. I probably won't Frankenstein the crampons. I ask because I heard comments about how the new SS crampons don't stay sharp and a pain to resharpen.
  18. I'm replacing my aging and dulling G12 for this winter. I prefer to use horizontal front point for most of my climbing (North East). Two obvious options here are: Grivel G12 and BD Sabretooth (Stainless Steel). Specs are pretty close to each other, BD is about 4oz heavier. Has anyone used both? How do they compare? Any boot fitting issues? Thanks!
  19. Wait till you try an eVent jacket. Rab makes the best. Westcomb blows goats. I bet Westcomb puts the zippers on the correct side. Marmot did the same thing. According to Marmot, only one company makes those light weight water proof zipper and the company only makes the wrong side zipper.
  20. I used down for belay jacket until one warm weekend. Got soaked on pitch 1, and froze the rest of the day. Never again. I use micropuff or it gets really cold (-10 to -20), I'll bring my DAS.
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